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Want some Chuck? They are open pollinated, so you could save seed and grow again if you like them.
What are their growth habits as far as foliage is concerned? As you know I need all the foliage I can getWant some Chuck? They are open pollinated, so you could save seed and grow again if you like them.
I will do a little research but I don't think this variety is available here. I'll check through all my seed magazinesThey are Sungold Chuck. I couldn't get my usual seeds this year so these were recommended, they are between a cherry and salad tomato in size, orange when ripe and sweet. I wasn't too keen on the flavour though which I found a little acidic, but that's personal choice of course.They produced a very good crop. I will try and get my favourite tomato seeds Golden Pearl for next year, not to be confused with Garden Pearl of course.
Quite vigorous foliage with usual number of sideshoots for an indeterminate variety.What are their growth habits as far as foliage is concerned? As you know I need all the foliage I can get
My favorites are the real acidic ones but the very worst tomato I ever tasted was wonderful.Quite vigorous foliage with usual number of sideshoots for an indeterminate variety.
I don't see any problem for you growing it, just, how sweet do you like your 'maters?
Sungold are the sweetest here.My favorites are the real acidic ones but the very worst tomato I ever tasted was wonderful.
And in the UK they are OP? If so I would like a few seeds.Sungold are the sweetest here.
It all depends on what you want to grow. A PH of 7.0 is neutral so at 7.1 it is just barely alkaline and at 6.7 a little acidic. Most vegetables uptake nutrients easier in a neutral soil. If it were me I wouldn't change a thing. I only wish my PH was the same as yoursI had a sample of my soil tested today, and the PH level in my garden soil is 7.1. In other area where my trees are measure 5.9 He told me that I need to lower the PH in garden soil to about 6.7, and I don't have to worry about my trees because the PH level is normal.
Your soil is great according to the tests. Your plants are dying because of early blight and not because you are doing anything wrong. It is happening because the fungal spores of early blight are in the soil. Wet humid weather aggravates the problem especially when the soil is splashed upon the leaves. There is no cure for early blight. All you can do is try to prevent it and to lesson its effects. I get early blight every year to some extent and the only way to have a good crop is to try to prevent it. Here are a few tips: As soon as the plant is in the ground or in its container, mulch all around the base of the plant so as to keep rain from splashing soil onto the leaves: When the plants are young and way before any symptoms appear start a spray regimen with antifungal products such has Neem or a copper based antifungal agent or incorporate Actinovate into the soil. Keep plants well apart to increase air circulation. Prune infected parts and decontaminate your shears after every cut. Get rid of all infected pruning s. Plant blight resistant plants. Unfortunately that leaves out many but not all heirlooms. There are many online web sites concerning early blight and things to do that I probably have forgotten about.Ok, the PH may ne good, but my plants are still dying of disease. I do have a sliver of hope. Although the bottom leaves are drying up and falling off, the new leaves are green and looking good.
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@Sheal they look really good. I can't wait to have some home grown tomatoes.
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