Should I Start Over

[Chuck]

I am going to use the Monterey spray to spray the soil this evening. Then, I will repeat every other day for week. I am hoping to get rid of them soon. The millipede will be collateral.

You don't spray the soil, you drench it. You must get the spinosad deep so as to affect the grubs down there. Just spraying the top of the ground will not affect them. Use a bucket and the mix is 2 oz per gallon of water

 

[ferice]

I used a 1 gallon sprayer to spray it. I will spray and drench it.

Look at this other one I found while digging the soil.

 

[ferice]

I've been reading and looking at bugs online. The one in the picture above looks like white grubs too. How do I differentiate between white grubs and weevil?

 

[Chuck]

I've been reading and looking at bugs online. The one in the picture above looks like white grubs too. How do I differentiate between white grubs and weevil?

Congratulations. You have another type of destructive grub. This particular one is a first stage larvae of the June Bug. These just love to eat the roots of just about everything. You can tell what he is by the orange dots on his side. After he eats a few of your plants roots he will be white with an orange head. How to tell a weevil from a grub? Most weevils have at least one pointed end and grubs are blunt on both ends. Weevils are borers and do most of their damage to the above ground part of the plant. They will bore into the woody part of a vine, eating the vine from the inside out when they reach maturity. Grubs mainly eat roots.

 

[ferice]

Thanks @Chuck I went to the University of Florida Testing Center to get test my soil and look at the leaves. According to them, my citrus and avocado trees have leaf miners. He told me the best way to control leaf miner is with the use of chemical. My tomato plants have a nitrogen deficiency and early tomato blight. It's one thing after another for me.

 

[Chuck]

Thanks @Chuck I went to the University of Florida Testing Center to get test my soil and look at the leaves. According to them, my citrus and avocado trees have leaf miners. He told me the best way to control leaf miner is with the use of chemical. My tomato plants have a nitrogen deficiency and early tomato blight. It's one thing after another for me.

Next year will be better. As for the leaf miners I have them most years but I have never had them do any long lasting major harm. Unsightly yes, but truthfully I don't worry about them, especially if I have to use chemicals. A spray regimen of Neem will not allow the leaf miner eggs to hatch. If you need a quick fix of nitrogen use either guano or bloodmeal. Early blight is a curse on all of us in the south. About all you can do is manage it until your crop is in

 

[ferice]

I transfer my purple tomato plants into a container today. I am hoping for better results.

 

[ferice]

Should I invest in a PH tester? If yes, which one would you recommend?

 

[Chuck]

Should I invest in a PH tester? If yes, which one would you recommend?

I think soil testers are a waste of money. They will, up to a point tell you what your soil has or does not have but none of them can tell you what your plant needs or can or cannot uptake. IMO

 

[ferice]

I am wondering because I took a few leaves of my tomatoe plant to University Of Florida to have then take a look at it. The guy told me that it early blight as a result of nitrogene deficiency. I am thinking that I could have caught it early had I bought a soil tester.

 

[Chuck]

I am wondering because I took a few leaves of my tomatoe plant to University Of Florida to have then take a look at it. The guy told me that it early blight as a result of nitrogene deficiency. I am thinking that I could have caught it early had I bought a soil tester.

Blight, either early or late, is NOT caused by a nitrogen deficiency. It is caused by a soil born fungus. Nitrogen has NOTHING to do with it. The healthiest most dark green tomato leaf in existence will fall to blight if it is in the soil. Do a little research of blight via the internet. Not once is the lack of nitrogen mentioned as a factor of this disease. Only fungus. And this is stated time and time again by different scientific studies by numerous universities. A rule of thumb: If your tomato leaves, or any other vegetable leaves are a dark green they do not need more nitrogen. If they are a bit yellowish they probably need either nitrogen or iron.

 

[ferice]

May be he meant to say lack of Nitrogen can make plants more susceptible to disease.


I was reading about it here today.

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/PP/PP12100.pdf

 

[ferice]

Look how fast it has deteriorated over a two weeks period. It was looking really heathy, and it's looking terrible now.

 

[Chuck]

That is a rapid decline. What variety tomato is that?

 

[ferice]

This is a heirloom tomaoe. This one looks healthy but a little leggy. I don't want to cut it, so it does not get infected.