Your Epsom Salt Advice

yardiron

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I quit using manure from local farms for my garden after a few bad experiences with it. Farmers do not separate horse, cow, or goat manure and all use various vaccinations, wormers, and antibiotics on their animals to be able to sell milk or prevent various diseases. Since animals get sold and moved around, its impossible to fine purely organic manure here. The two years I did get what was supposed to be clean manure, I composted it for two years and added it to the garden at the end of the season. I had a ton of problems the following year. Squash, peppers, and corn all died and I had bacterial spotting on all the tomatoes. I had to take a backhoe and remove several feet of soil and replace it with new mushroom soil. It took me two more years to get it back to normal.
All tests showed extremely high pesticide levels and heavy metal counts were through the roof. I also had to dig up my compost pile to rid it of that load of manure. (Normally my compost pile has green covering it by mid June, between weeds and growing seeds, being fertile ground something is always sprouting. That year it was devoid of any growth. I dug it up, spread it out way back in the woods and went and got 10 yards of mushroom soil to replenish the garden and fill in what I had dug out beneath the compost pile.

I had a similar case at another house where we put down a load of mixed top soil for a new lawn. It was a mix of composted manure and farm top soil.
Nothing would grow in it. Between the contaminants in the manure, between heavy metals from the source not separating out urine to the farm soil being laced with glyphosate and a dozen other pesticides it took years to correct and amend to the point grass would grow, The issues showed up as soon as the sod went down, it turned yellow and died in a week. It turned out that the farm that was selling soil and manure had ceased planting and gone to strictly horse boarding, a petting zoo and a garden supply center along with a vegetable stand where they sold vegetables they got from other sources.
They were growing there own food for the animals therefore since none of the animals were for meat, 'organic' anything was not a concern. They were covering the hay and alfalfa fields in glyphosate and other pesticides and fertilizers to guarantee weed and pest free growth. All animals were heavily dosed for everything regardless and zero attempt was made to keep the manure they sold free of urine.
The end result was a toxic mess spread 6" deep over three quarters of a quarter acre lot where nothing would grow. It killed 115 landscape plants, a truck load of sod, and all but one existing tree there.
The one thing that did help was a wet winter and copious amounts of lime, potash, and 0-0-30 fertilizer and several large sacks of mixed grass seed meant for poor soil. It took three full years to see a real lawn and only a few landscape plants eventually were able to be put in. Yew bushes, azaleas, and forsythia was all that would grow there for years. All the typical flowering plants refused to grow. 22 years later the lawn is still poor at best and the gardens restricted to the same few plants and the only trees being one fir tree and two spruce trees. There were five spruce trees but pine beetles wiped them out 9 years ago. Going from one tree to the next till the whole row was dead. They moved through the area cutting a path heading south/southwest spreading only in one direction sparing trees only slightly out of their path somehow, thus why three trees still remain. A row of Arborvitae trees were planted in their place but were destroyed by bag worms that seemed unaffected by pesticides about five years ago. I don't live there so its not a major concern but it could easily have been here that it happened as well.

I should also note that Mg levels on soil tests here tend to be in the 40-50 ppm naturally in my area. Calcium though is how we control pH and blossom end rot.
I've not had blossom end rot issues since I started using pulverized egg shells in my garden vs dolomite lime. A one time application at or just before planting to the immediate area of each plant has proven to be the answer to both ber and various fungal issues.
Last season, although we had a few blistering heat waves, my plants hit there stride in late July and produced good, although moderate sized tomatoes through November. They recovered from the high temps by the end of August and with the help of an extra fertilizer shot and some fresh mulch, went into overdrive producing tomatoes till and after first frost. I had put a 4 mil sheet of semi clear polyethylene above the garden in Oct to prevent frost from settling on the plants. It kept my tomatoes and okra alive for several more weeks before the day time temps finally took their toll.

Normal fertilizer also tends to contain certain amounts of Mg as well, so in my area, its rarely needed to add epsom salts directly.

None of this applies to other areas though, it may not apply to someone 2 miles away let alone 2,000 miles away. Its just what works for me.
 
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Meadowlark

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...All tests showed extremely high pesticide levels and heavy metal counts were through the roof.
Your experience is 100% opposite from mine. Decades of using my own home-grown composted cow manure and not one single problem....in fact, just for fun, I have recorded 6 consecutive years of "No N, P, K required" soil test results completely without any synthetic fertilizers and/or "cides".

It simply is not true that everyone that raises livestock uses chemicals to do so. I do not. Many others I know also do not. It is true, however unfortunately, that due diligence is required of the gardener before using ANY external potential soil amendments.

That you experienced problems after using externally sourced manure is because of lack of due diligence and not any inherent failure of composted manure. When it comes to using external soil amendments, the saying should be "let the gardener beware".

cow compost 3.JPG

... and got 10 yards of mushroom soil to replenish the garden and fill in what I had dug out beneath the compost pile.
Mushroom compost is what is left over from growing mushrooms. Depleted organic materials normally including horse and/or chicken manure. Key word...depleted. The mushroom grower likely has done absolutely no due diligence. Probably has no idea as to whether or not harmful chemicals are present. Almost impossible for a home gardener to perform due diligence on that stuff.


"let the gardener beware".
 

yardiron

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The key to mushroom soil is it comes from an area that is known for organic mushrooms. its some of the best soil I've ever found but it comes from 100 miles west of here.
The local dairy farms here are small, they rely on the cheapest methods which in most cases are vaccines and meds from tractor supply. Stores here don't sell their milk, its almost always sent off to production plants or bakeries.

I don't have a farm, my garden is my back yard and for the most part in this area farm animals are banned. Even chickens. Lots are 120x75 on average. My garden is 1/3 of my back yard, my two boats and a shed are the rest of it.
Some used to plant in front or next to their house but they banned that now after too many complained about seeing bare dirt I guess.

NJ soil is mostly sandy, it ranges from sandy/salty at the shore to sandy with some clay and gravel to the south and west.
I fall in the southern area where its mostly sandy with some clay mixed in. So any top soil or mushroom soil I bring in is an improvement.

Soil here is generally borderline low on calcium but 40-50ppm on Mg. high in iron unless we get a lot of rain, and road salt runoff is an issue as is neighbors who pour on Roundup anywhere they see green around their paved areas.

I get the soil tested at planting and in mid August, a friend has access to free testing via his farm so it costs nothing to get a test done. Those test strips, electric meters and such are never accurate and can change from rain to rain too.

What I want to do next is get away from city water for irrigation. I want to set up to collect more rainwater but have concerns about pulling it from my asphalt roof. One of the roof gutter drains already goes to the garden area but its pretty much a no choice thing due to the slope of the land.
 

cpp gardener

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Meadowlark, your container mix actually HAS soil in it so it tests more accurately. Most commercial potting ‘soils’ don’t have any real soil, only organics, sand, perlite and vermiculite.
 

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I agree 100% with @Meadowlark. I could not grow ANY tomatoes without ES. I use basically the same application rate. I know this for a fact and not some theory as to calcium levels. I could not care less about what the calcium is doing or not doing. ES works and has never failed in many decades of use.
I think it must be something with the soil in Texas guys. Or the excessive heat levels your air and soil temps often reach and the varieties that tolerate those temps well. Obviously even when adding a lot of ES your magnesium levels are still in the optimal range and not to the point where they inhibit the movement of calcium in the soil. Meanwhile here in Ontario while I never use anything but organic products in my soil and I know my calcium levels are good I've never had an issue with BER even the one summer where I grew some Romas which are known to be very susceptible to BER.
I've also never had a soil test done just because I always get good results with whatever I grow so I've never felt the need, although if it was cheap enough and I actually knew where to send a soil sample I might do it just out of curiosity. So I just did a search and found this site in Ontario but there's not a chance in hell I'm going to pay close to $100 for a test I don't need. So much for that idea. https://soilhealth.ca/vegetables-and-fruits/
Cheers
 

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I think it must be something with the soil in Texas guys. Or the excessive heat levels your air and soil temps often reach and the varieties that tolerate those temps well. Obviously even when adding a lot of ES your magnesium levels are still in the optimal range and not to the point where they inhibit the movement of calcium in the soil. Meanwhile here in Ontario while I never use anything but organic products in my soil and I know my calcium levels are good I've never had an issue with BER even the one summer where I grew some Romas which are known to be very susceptible to BER.
I've also never had a soil test done just because I always get good results with whatever I grow so I've never felt the need, although if it was cheap enough and I actually knew where to send a soil sample I might do it just out of curiosity. So I just did a search and found this site in Ontario but there's not a chance in hell I'm going to pay close to $100 for a test I don't need. So much for that idea. https://soilhealth.ca/vegetables-and-fruits/
Cheers
Here is what I know for a fact. Texas is a huge state with numerous types of soils from very sandy to heavy clay, from highly acidic to highly alkaline. I have had a garden in many of them. BER has been a problem in every garden I have ever had. Epsom Salts has been used and not used in each garden. Wherever and whenever ES is used there is either a large reduction or a complete removal of BER. Some varieties of tomatoes such as the Roma types are seemingly more prone to BER than any other variety. It takes about 30%-50% more ES to stop BER in Romas. On all other types of tomatoes using a small amount of ES such as a teaspoon full does not work. In my decades of gardening I have found the optimum amount to be about 1/4 cup, in the hole at time of planting. I have measured the amount of ES my hand can hold when made into a fist, 1/4 cup, and I would imagine that amount is fairly universal. I find using a measuring cup on a hundred plants a PITA. I have also found that to completely stop BER more than one application is required. IMO it can be a little tricky to know exactly when to apply the second application but I apply it when I think it has become too warm for any more fruit set. I also believe a third application is required and this is done when most if not all of the tomatoes are in the white stage. So all in all about 3/4 cup per plant.
I do not know why or how it works. I don't know why there isn't a magnesium buildup in the soil. I do not know why some plants are unable to uptake calcium. A lot of gardeners say BER is caused by improper watering to which I say is a bunch of BS.
I have been on this forum for a long time and have talked to many people over many states and countries about this. Many people have taken my advice about using ES. In many cases it has worked and in others it has not. I cannot say if these gardeners followed my directions or not. AFAIK there has not been an actual side by side test or a study of the soil where BER is prevalent. I would like to know how and why it works. If it works everywhere or not and why. I would like a simple, cheap and forum wide test done here where all participants would plant two tomato plants of the same variety in the same garden, one using ES and the other not. It would be like herding cats though and will never happen.
 

Meadowlark

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... I would like a simple, cheap and forum wide test done here where all participants would plant two tomato plants of the same variety in the same garden, one using ES and the other not. It would be like herding cats though and will never happen.
This gardener has been there and done that experiment...about 40 years ago.

Been using Epsom Salts ever since on tomatoes and made BER 100% a thing of the past. I have refined my applications over the years to three handfuls on each plant...one before planting, one when blooming starts and the third immediately after a big rain during warm weather.
 

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This gardener has been there and done that experiment...about 40 years ago.

Been using Epsom Salts ever since on tomatoes and made BER 100% a thing of the past. I have refined my applications over the years to three handfuls on each plant...one before planting, one when blooming starts and the third immediately after a big rain during warm weather.
Looks like our only difference is that I use a handful at planting and after fruit setting has occurred. I really don't know which application is most important or if they are all equally important. My gut tells me the first application is the most important as I have seen tomatoes with beginning BER in the white stage.

You and I both know for a fact that ES works each and every time it is used........HERE. Does it work THERE as well? That is what I want to know. The why and how will come later after it is proven it works there as well.
 

smitty55

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Looks like our only difference is that I use a handful at planting and after fruit setting has occurred. I really don't know which application is most important or if they are all equally important. My gut tells me the first application is the most important as I have seen tomatoes with beginning BER in the white stage.

You and I both know for a fact that ES works each and every time it is used........HERE. Does it work THERE as well? That is what I want to know. The why and how will come later after it is proven it works there as well.
Well I'd like to help you with that experiment but seeing as I never get BER and never use ES that would be a fruitless endeavor on my part. Personally I agree with the statement about irregular watering, when the soil is too dry it limits the movement of calcium in the soil as it needs moisture for that to happen. Meanwhile saturated soil limits the development of fine feeder roots needed for nutrient uptake and restricts microorganism activity while also resulting in oxygen deprivation which again limits root growth. So why you guys need that much ES to limit BER while I don't need any will have to remain a mystery, the only thing I can think of apart from climate differences is that my soils have a high soil organic content and I keep my watering schedule regular which helps maintain the moisture levels needed for adequate flow of calcium from the soil to the roots. So like I said earlier, if you need and use it to prevent BER then obviously it's the right product to use. Cheers
 

Meadowlark

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... the only thing I can think of apart from climate differences is that my soils have a high soil organic content and I keep my watering schedule regular
I'd say no on both counts. My soil has layers of green manure, chop and drop legumes, and composted cow manure incorporated...maximum organic matter and zero synthetics or "cides". I use an automatic sprinkler system for regular watering...except of course what Nature delivers.

I have relatives in Missouri that garden under considerably different climate...they also prevent BER with Epsom Salts.
 

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