Tomato seedlings problems

[Tesla6518]

Yes!! I’ve been grinding all our eggshells to a powder all winter to use when transplanting them! Can’t remember where I read it last year but collected a lot and am ready.

My wif is Yugoslavian and they use this all the time another tip for tomatoes or cu umbers/gherkins, blighty or powdery mildew.
1/2 ltr warm water add 1 teaspoon of garlic powder, 100 ml raw cows milk and tablespoon of dried nettles. Mix well and leave to stand for 2 hours. Strain thru cloth and mix with 2 ltr water. Ready for spraying It will boost the plants immune system and help prevent the above diseases. Great fungicide.

 

[Consistency]

For what it's worth. I've grown tomato plants late and successfully sprouted decade old seeds that I dried myself. What I've found is that it's best breaking up the soil really well and plant the seeds directly in the garden. They will sprout and grow really fast and large when the seeds are planted directly in fresh soil. Tomato plants don't do well when transplanted. I think it has to do with germinating seed's inability to ground to the earth when planted in plastic pots.

Last year. I planted tomato seeds directly in the garden after breaking up the soil as a test in September and they were already two feet high within two weeks. The plants eventually died but I learned a valuable lesson.

 

[fencefacts]

I live in Northern Illinois grow region 5. This is my third year planting tomatoes. Last year I set up grow lights/shelves indoors but didn’t get started until the last week of April. This caused all my flowers and vegetables to not even get outdoors until mid-July, so I had a short season. However most seedlings did awesome indoors and my tomatoes were robust, so much so I gave plants away to neighbors because they were too beautiful to throw away and I only had so much room.

This year I started the beginning of March. Same homemade starter soil as last year :equal parts of vermiculite, perlite, and sphagnum peat moss. Same indoor temperatures (70-72°) and same humidity. Same grow lights. I also started in the same pots (6-cell 2.5” square 3” deep.) I water from the bottom, which I learned to do last year after much frustration.

This year though right off the bat my tomatoes became leggy and whenever new leaves grew from the top any leaves beneath it died and fell off. I finally repotted all of them into separate pots up to their leaves. My pictures show the first repotting and the second. I am stumped because they are doing the same thing. The plants in the picture are two months of growth. Last year they would have been so full and leafed out. I replanted new seeds two weeks ago in smaller pots again to have backups, but I’ll be darned if they aren’t doing the exact same thing.

I gave them Jack’s tomato feed for the past three watering being sure to not overdose. I stopped bottom watering when I transplanted and switched back to top watering and use a gauge to check when almost dry before watering next, in case they were getting too much water initially.

Why is this happening when I have followed all the advice to prevent or treat leggy seedlings? Will I be able to save them? Why when repotted do they not root out properly to make full plants and instead keep losing all leaves beneath the top ones?

Fyi all my other plants are flourishing in same conditions. Pepper plants started to really fluff out after repotting. All flowers are getting full.

It sounds like you're experiencing issues with your tomato seedlings becoming leggy and losing their lower leaves, despite following a consistent growing routine that worked well for you last year. Here are some potential causes and solutions to help you address this problem:

1. Light Intensity and Duration:
   • Light Intensity: Ensure that your grow lights are providing enough intensity. Tomato seedlings need bright light to prevent becoming leggy. The lights should be positioned close to the plants (2-4 inches away) but not so close as to cause burning.
   • Light Duration: Tomato seedlings thrive with 14-16 hours of light per day. Make sure your grow lights are on for an adequate amount of time.
2. Nutrient Balance:
   • Fertilization: While Jack’s tomato feed is generally good, it’s important to ensure that your seedlings are not experiencing nutrient imbalances. Sometimes, too much nitrogen can cause leggy growth. Ensure a balanced fertilizer regimen that supports both foliage and root development.
   • Soil Nutrition: Since you’re using a homemade mix, ensure it has adequate nutrients. Although peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite are excellent for drainage and aeration, they don’t provide much nutrition. You might consider incorporating a slow-release fertilizer into your soil mix or regularly supplementing with a balanced liquid fertilizer.
3. Watering Practices:
   • Watering Frequency: Overwatering can lead to poor root development and leggy plants. It sounds like you’ve adjusted your watering practices, but ensure the soil is moist but not waterlogged. A moisture gauge is a good tool; continue to use it to avoid overwatering.
   • Watering Method: Bottom watering is effective, but make sure that it’s consistent and that excess water is drained away to avoid root rot. Switching between bottom and top watering might confuse the plants’ root systems, so pick one method and stick with it.
4. Temperature and Humidity:
   • Temperature: While 70-72°F is generally good for seedling growth, slightly cooler temperatures (around 65-70°F) can help prevent legginess. Try to maintain consistent temperatures without drastic fluctuations.
   • Humidity: Ensure that the humidity is not too high, as excessive humidity can promote disease and weak growth. Proper air circulation is essential; consider using a small fan to gently circulate air around the plants.
5. Transplanting Practices:
   • Pot Size: When you repot, ensure the new pots are not too large, which can lead to overwatering. Gradually increase the pot size to encourage healthy root development.
   • Burial Depth: Planting seedlings deeper, as you’ve done, is good practice since tomatoes can develop roots along buried stems. Ensure that the soil around newly transplanted seedlings is firmly packed but not compacted to support root growth.
6. Pest and Disease Check:
   • Inspect for Pests: Sometimes pests like fungus gnats can damage seedlings' roots and contribute to poor growth. Check for any signs of pests and treat accordingly.
   • Disease Prevention: Ensure that your seedlings are not suffering from any fungal or bacterial infections. Sterilize your tools and pots before use to prevent disease.

Given these considerations, here are specific steps to take:

• Ensure grow lights are at the right height and providing adequate light duration.
• Monitor and adjust your fertilization practices to avoid nutrient imbalances.
• Maintain consistent watering practices, avoiding overwatering.
• Keep temperatures slightly cooler to reduce legginess.
• Ensure good air circulation around your plants.