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I think Chuck Actually means 55f (12.8C).
Nope, 65F. You can transplant at 55 but the growth is slow to slower. And you can just about forget fruit set at 55. 65 -85 is optimumI think Chuck Actually means 55f (12.8C).
Basically I agree with this study. However I don't believe this dated (1972) study takes into account important aspects of growing a productive tomato plant. For instance, the temps were constant 24 hours a day. Only 2 trusses were observed. No mention of the growth habit or the relative rate of growth at any of the 3 temperatures. What this study does show is that 18.3C (65F) is the optimum temperature for fruit set and at a lower temps and higher temps fruit set drops significantly.65f ~ 18C
I've not had ONE night like that this year, and many years never get two nights like it successively.
According to this paper, cited 9 times, temperatures require to be between 12.8C (55f) and 26.7C (79f) for successful fruit set, with 18.3C (64f) being the optimum, rather than the minimum.
http://www.nrcresearchpress.com/doi/pdf/10.4141/cjps72-080
You must have a secret weapon. This goes against all research. With nighttime temps that low research indicates blossom drop. Here is just one of many links.I’ve got hundreds of tomatoes and our nighttime temps have been 45-50 so far. Mine set during the day when it’s 65-100.
Clearly that research is flawed if I have hundreds of tomatoes in my garden and thousands of flowers going right now. Also what you posted doesn’t really contradict what I said. I said they pollinate during daytime temps and that articles says they primarily pollinate between 10am and 4pm.You must have a secret weapon. This goes against all research. With nighttime temps that low research indicates blossom drop. Here is just one of many links.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs1195
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