Someone told me that..... (re: fertilizer)

[Chuck]

Ok, I'll continue hardening them off just being extra careful not to stress them too much. Yesterday was their first day out and it was just for an hour. Today I'm giving them 2 hours and tomorrow I'll give em 3... and just build up gradually until their nice and strong.

That's the plan. Just stress them enough to make them stronger and no more.

 

[GneissPlace]

Chuck, when you said you don't want temps to get below 50F did you mean the soil temperature or the air temperature? I'm wondering bc they say you can plant tomatoes after last frost and our last frost date is the 15th.. however I see that the nighttime temps are still going below 50 after this date when I looked at the weather. I was gonna get a couple different varieties of tomato plants from the local nursery that are already strong and hardened off to plant in addition to my tomato plants but I don't want to put them in if its too cold. But they say you can transplant tomatoes out after last frost date so.. it doesn't look like the nighttime temps will be consistently over 50 in the near future. At this time the nightime temps are constantly over 40 tho.

 

[Chuck]

Chuck, when you said you don't want temps to get below 50F did you mean the soil temperature or the air temperature? I'm wondering bc they say you can plant tomatoes after last frost and our last frost date is the 15th.. however I see that the nighttime temps are still going below 50 after this date when I looked at the weather. I was gonna get a couple different varieties of tomato plants from the local nursery that are already strong and hardened off to plant in addition to my tomato plants but I don't want to put them in if its too cold. But they say you can transplant tomatoes out after last frost date so.. it doesn't look like the nighttime temps will be consistently over 50 in the near future. At this time the nightime temps are constantly over 40 tho.

Tomatoes do not like temps at or about 50F. 45F and lower will stop growth for all intents and purposes. When I say 50 I mean for prolonged times, not just for a few hours. When you grow tomato seedlings you want rapid and uninterrupted growth. Just because someone says you can plant something after last frost doesn't mean much except that the plants will not be killed by the frost. It won't frost at 33F but don't you think that 33 is still a tad cool for hot weather plants? Soil temps are also very important. If soil temps are in the 50's expect slow growth. Tomatoes grow rapidly when soil temps are above 65F and faster the warmer the soil becomes. You will be much better off by bringing in your plants when nighttime temps will fall below 50. If this means that your plants will get too big for the containers they are now in if you want the best transplants you will just have to repot into a slightly larger container. I have to repot mine at least 3 times, depending on the variety. I just checked my plant a few minutes ago and I discovered a few set tomatoes. Last frost here is April 1 and I put mine in the ground on the 3rd IIRC. Container and all, they were at least 1 1/2 feet tall but I planted them very deep. Right now they are about 1 1/2 feet tall. My temps have been lows in the 60's and highs in the 90's. Soil temp at 6" is 64.

 

[GneissPlace]

Ahhh, I get it... Thank you! I will wait until nighttime temps are above 50 and just keep bringing them in at night until then. For some reason mine aren't growing that much. I have grow lights on them but maybe they aren't strong enough... or maybe its bc I haven't used any fertilizer on them... but mine certainly aren't even close to the size yours were. Mine are about 6 inches.

 

[Chuck]

Ahhh, I get it... Thank you! I will wait until nighttime temps are above 50 and just keep bringing them in at night until then. For some reason mine aren't growing that much. I have grow lights on them but maybe they aren't strong enough... or maybe its bc I haven't used any fertilizer on them... but mine certainly aren't even close to the size yours were. Mine are about 6 inches.

If yours have at least 2 sets of true leaves you can start fertilizing them @1/2 the rate. They need lots of sunlight. I don't know anything about artificial lighting, but I have rarely seen anyone grow really nice plants under lights.

 

[GneissPlace]

Do you grow them in flats outdoors I guess and bring them in at night? In Virginia it was so cold when I started my plants I wouldn't have been able to start any seedlings outside I don't think but maybe now that they are getting outside more and the temps are higher they will grow faster!

 

[Chuck]

Do you grow them in flats outdoors I guess and bring them in at night? In Virginia it was so cold when I started my plants I wouldn't have been able to start any seedlings outside I don't think but maybe now that they are getting outside more and the temps are higher they will grow faster!

I start them indoors and as soon as they have leaves and the weather is OK I start taking them outside on anything I can find. Flats, cookie trays and an old Red Ryder Wagon. Many days it would be fine in the AM but by afternoon it would be too windy. I start the seeds in my old kitchen oven. It has a pilot light that stays on so it is really warm inside it. After they sprout I put them on shelves I made in front of a south facing glass patio door. They don't really get enough sun there which is why I feel I must take them outside. When I had my big garden in operation it became quite a chore to move 150 tomato plants inside each night but now that I can't work that garden anymore I am down to only moving about 40 or so, so its not that bad of a chore.

 

[GneissPlace]

I start them indoors and as soon as they have leaves and the weather is OK I start taking them outside on anything I can find. Flats, cookie trays and an old Red Ryder Wagon. Many days it would be fine in the AM but by afternoon it would be too windy. I start the seeds in my old kitchen oven. It has a pilot light that stays on so it is really warm inside it. After they sprout I put them on shelves I made in front of a south facing glass patio door. They don't really get enough sun there which is why I feel I must take them outside. When I had my big garden in operation it became quite a chore to move 150 tomato plants inside each night but now that I can't work that garden anymore I am down to only moving about 40 or so, so its not that bad of a chore.

Wow! Yeah 150 plants would be a lot! 40 or so is still a lot to me but much more manageable. Well I'm happy to know your trick so I can try and copy you and get great big healthy plants too! Mine are at 4 hours of outdoor time today. Its overcast and 70 degrees so they are good. I will build up their time so they can spend all their days under the sunshine! No more living off grow lights...

 

[Robertadema]

It seems to me it is good idea. I agree with you.
xxx

 

[Canuck]

I'm a big fan of the Alaska fish fertilizers. I've been using them on my tomatoes with decent results so far. Anyone else using it ?

 

[jm0928912]

That does help. There are just so many choices. I'll look at it like picking out a shampoo.. ha! They all clean your hair basically. So the fertilizers all feed the soil basically, which in turn feeds the plants. No real need to scrutinize over what is better that what. Just get the job done. I should however make sure whatever i get is organic and doesn't have really high numbers like the Langebenite did. Sound right? Sorta?

looks - right

 

[Tetters]

I missed this thread, and wanted to add what a helpful and interesting thread it has become. With special thanks to @Chuck for such valuable and clear information

 

[DirtMechanic]

This might help clear your head. THERE IS NO PERFECT IDEAL FERTILIZER. And why is this? Its because there are no two soils nor no two plants exactly the same. Remember, it is not the numbers on the bag that are important, it is microbes in the soil that are important. The plants don't "eat" the fertilizer, they uptake the nutrients in the fertilizer AFTER the microbes have broken the fertilizer down into its molecular components. At least this is the way it works with organic fertilizers. With synthetics the nutrients go from the bag to the plant leaving out the soil microbes.

And my gentle scientist, I would point out the exponential possibilties of including the context of weather and environmental context behind your precise descriptions.

Haha now I read the rest and see you explained it. I should really read all the posts. I know it.