Soap & neem did nothing from the first application, so it has nothing to do with building an immunity, unless they developed one before moving in here.
So what actually kills aphids?
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I didn't really think that, but there are those who would think 'I have tried other things, I'll try making it strong'. No way am I saying you are one, but you must admit there are plenty of people about who do have strange ideas, so just making sure.
NigelJ
Still Learning
I'm surprised any of your plants are still alive with all that drenching.
I would go back and follow the instructions on the concentrate pack regarding strength and frequency of application. There are frequently other chemicals in the mix other than the active, for example wetting agents and solublisers. At too high a concentration the droplets may just run off before having an effect, or you may get uneven application.
The instructions are there for a reason and using higher strengths you are just wasting money.
Mechanical removal, finger and thumb works, wear gloves if squeamish.
I would go back and follow the instructions on the concentrate pack regarding strength and frequency of application. There are frequently other chemicals in the mix other than the active, for example wetting agents and solublisers. At too high a concentration the droplets may just run off before having an effect, or you may get uneven application.
The instructions are there for a reason and using higher strengths you are just wasting money.
Mechanical removal, finger and thumb works, wear gloves if squeamish.
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Or even a nice soft shaving brush that won't hurt the plant
There was a comment earlier about their jaws being locked onto the plant, so they stay there even when dead. Could it be that most are dying, but don't look dead and are then replaced by rapid reinfestation?
Could something else be supporting a small population locally?
If aphids can live happily in an indoor environment could ladybirds/ladybugs? Would introducing predators work in your situation?
Or perhaps better still - nematodes! I've only ever used slug and vine weevil nematodes but they work a treat. You can indeed get aphid nematodes. The are essentially a predator - the tiny nematodes lay eggs in the aphid, it hatches and eats the aphid from inside, then finds another aphid to lay it's eggs in. So it's a bit like a plague running through the aphid population that won't stop until there are no aphids left.
www.nematodesdirect.co.uk
Or perhaps better still - nematodes! I've only ever used slug and vine weevil nematodes but they work a treat. You can indeed get aphid nematodes. The are essentially a predator - the tiny nematodes lay eggs in the aphid, it hatches and eats the aphid from inside, then finds another aphid to lay it's eggs in. So it's a bit like a plague running through the aphid population that won't stop until there are no aphids left.
Aphid Control - Aphidius x500
Aphids are one of the most troublesome pests both underglass and outdoors, attacking a wide range of plants. Control aphids underglass in your greenhouse / conservatory by introducing Aphidius as soon as aphids are present and the average temperature is 10C/50F.
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Sometimes there are whitesh bodies after a soap spray but they are dead so they are very stubborn. Flipping them with afinger reveals they don't move. lol.
NigelJ
Still Learning
Aphidus are a small parasitic wasp not a nematode (despite being sold by nematodesdirect). A good idea though, they won't get rid of all of the aphids, but will significantly reduce the numbers.If aphids can live happily in an indoor environment could ladybirds/ladybugs? Would introducing predators work in your situation?
Or perhaps better still - nematodes! I've only ever used slug and vine weevil nematodes but they work a treat. You can indeed get aphid nematodes. The are essentially a predator - the tiny nematodes lay eggs in the aphid, it hatches and eats the aphid from inside, then finds another aphid to lay it's eggs in. So it's a bit like a plague running through the aphid population that won't stop until there are no aphids left.
Aphid Control - Aphidius x500
Aphids are one of the most troublesome pests both underglass and outdoors, attacking a wide range of plants. Control aphids underglass in your greenhouse / conservatory by introducing Aphidius as soon as aphids are present and the average temperature is 10C/50F.
OP will probably need to find US supplier though.
I followed the directions, it did nothing. Wow, these forums are completely useless. Not one person has answered the question: what kills aphids?
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It kills them, the bristles are stiff enough to damage the aphids but not the plant. Use actual soap, not 'dish soap', it then gums up their breathing holes, that kills the ones that survive the bristles.
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This will definitely kill them.
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Actually, a lot of people have answered. The fact that what works for everyone else doesn't work for you is hardly our fault!
I use 1 to 1.5 tablespoons of Dawn Ultra per gallon of water and it has always worked for me. If you try the Great Value brand or castile soap then it will have different chemicals or more water so you would have to change the dose or that brand may not even work. I'm not sure about a different type of soap but I think Oliver is saying to use a brush and brush a bar of soap and then brush the insect.
I have also used sevin dust liquid and malathion before and it killed them but I do my best to not have to use those things. Sevin dust (the actual dust) may work better because the dust will lay there and continue to kill if you can get it applied to the underside of the leaves.
I'm pretty sure none of the insecticides work on their eggs so if you spray and kill the live insects, the eggs hatch later and it appears that nothing has happened. You should spray, then later spray again to kill the eggs that hatched. Timing is key. Here is something that says aphid eggs take 7-8 days to hatch and they can be born pregnant, which I didn't know, so again timing of the spray is very important if you have a problem like you have.
I have also used sevin dust liquid and malathion before and it killed them but I do my best to not have to use those things. Sevin dust (the actual dust) may work better because the dust will lay there and continue to kill if you can get it applied to the underside of the leaves.
I'm pretty sure none of the insecticides work on their eggs so if you spray and kill the live insects, the eggs hatch later and it appears that nothing has happened. You should spray, then later spray again to kill the eggs that hatched. Timing is key. Here is something that says aphid eggs take 7-8 days to hatch and they can be born pregnant, which I didn't know, so again timing of the spray is very important if you have a problem like you have.
I know old post but I spray with cooking oil, Dawn Soap and Peppermint Oil.
It seems to work.
big rockpile
It seems to work.
big rockpile