More help septoria leaf spot

[DirtMechanic]

Thanks!

So I mean what do people do... they get this disease in there yard all of a sudden and say, well, guess I'm done, lol. It stays overwinter so never goes away, I can't beleive people just go from growing big old plants to cutting 10% off a week, spending hundred on bs remedies intended to control instead of cure, so the chemical companies can keep selling. Maybe that's the issue here, a complete lack of effective regulation. Wouldn't be surprised if they are engineering diseases resistant to their chemicals, technically we all are kinda breeding them ourselves lol. I'm about to call it done, fun one year never again... or maybe I just gotta sell off my dirt, move and start over. Tell you one thing... only ever growing from seed again. Never trusting a strange plant... if I garden again it'll be in a clean room, lol, jk.

We have tremendous pathogen pressure here. It is near 100f with near 100% humidity. The insects vector bacteria and viruses and the soil harbors fungi. But in the end it is a balancing act. You tip the scale by adding food for example. Then you get a fungal bloom. So the big boys are famous for killing the soil. A variety of injectables have been used and one recently banned as it gassed out to kill the soil but floated up to harm the atmosphere. That same idea though in the small garden is just a timing trick. If it takes 90 days to get a crop in then doing things to kill off nematodes or set back fungus are done up to planting and then maybe softer pre-emptive methods are used on transplants. One of my favorites came from the idea of neem oil. Turns out thyme oil is a suprisingly effective fungicide against some of the nastiest fungi we face. But all those are external and preventative methods. The potassium salts of phosponic acid seem to be even more agressive.

That soil treatment I was using with thyme had humates in it and some sugar I suspect. Works a treat if the timing is right. Its Promax by Humagro.

Fair warning: essential oils can be deadly to a garden unless they are highly diluted.

Another but softer warning. Its not good smelling like lavendar and it will get on you and you will smell it at the strangest times. But hey thyme smells better than garlic oil which is almost as good as thyme oil.

The enemy of your enemy is your friend. Trichoderma will eat most of the evil fungi in a garden. Bacteria too. You can feed it cornmeal and even buy it to innoculate up your population but its out there in your soil already in some quantity.

 

[YumYum]

I use chlorantholanil on my tomatoes which seems to keep that fungus at bay. The main thing I had to figure out was is that it doesn't kill fungus. I thought that for several years myself. You would think a fungicide kills fungus but no. It is a misleading term. With Chlorantholanil you have to think of it as applying "Armor All" to your tires and the fungus doesn't stick to the tires because it is greasy. Rain and time/plant growth wears off the "Armor All" or creates cracks in it so the fungus can stick to the plant at some point. I havent used baking soda much but I think of it the same way. Copper however will kill and prevent fungus at the right concentration but will build up in the soil so its not a long term solution.

 

[DirtMechanic]

I use chlorantholanil on my tomatoes which seems to keep that fungus at bay. The main thing I had to figure out was is that it doesn't kill fungus. I thought that for several years myself. You would think a fungicide kills fungus but no. It is a misleading term. With Chlorantholanil you have to think of it as applying "Armor All" to your tires and the fungus doesn't stick to the tires because it is greasy. Rain and time/plant growth wears off the "Armor All" or creates cracks in it so the fungus can stick to the plant at some point. I havent used baking soda much but I think of it the same way. Copper however will kill and prevent fungus at the right concentration but will build up in the soil so its not a long term solution.

I went and tried the silicone from the hydro grow scene in an attempt to "coat" the tomatoes. In the vid about the fungus it showed hyphae snaking into open stomata. Thats why a wax job will not work. I was hopeful but no joy. I have used Chlorantholanil, but in the steps of my journey the essential thyme oil in pro max did a better job. The hyphae wont grow across it in petri dishes. It even has a major, like 90%, suppression of fusarium in those dishes. Having read about that I had to give it a shot. Well that and I needed a nematicide as well so thyme oil was double duty. I was spraying and tilling in the off season to expose and kill. In winter the hatchlings come slower so you have to be ready and waiting. In the egg they are impervious. Summer they are hatching in 20 day cycles with the heat so I was spraying heavy and drenching.

 

[oneeye]

It's hard to beleive... we jave so many funguscides that work so well for humans but not plants? There are internal and topical funguscides that wipe it out in humans, injections, why is there no effective treatment for plants? Can you imagine treating athletes foot with hydrogen peroxide or copper? I guess titanium dioxide or zinc oxide won't work cause it isn't transparent... but isn't there a like a plant fungal drug I can inject them with to end this?

I bought some agri fos, as the fellow suggested... but your probably right, I'm screwed, now and every year after... because I bought a plant from a prick.

Assuming there is no plant drug and assuming this 300$ I spent to try all these solutions turns out to be waste, isn't there anything else that can be done to get this out of my yard? I don't want to have to control something that wasn't even a problem before I bought that pricks plant... I mean, should I spray my soil with bleach in winter, how deep in the soil can bad septoria live? What if I wipe down the stem and leaves with bleach by had... if the plants are doomed the organic goal is moot... this sucks so bad guys!

If you have a fungus, you have an environmental or genetic issue. If you address those then the fungus won't be a problem. I can see you using a heavy soil mix with a lot of wood in the mix. That may be a big part of the problem because wood has to decompose and can affect the soil vorticity. After being wet for a month you started having problems.

 

[gunslingor]

Mos

If you have a fungus, you have an environmental or genetic issue. If you address those then the fungus won't be a problem. I can see you using a heavy soil mix with a lot of wood in the mix. That may be a big part of the problem because wood has to decompose and can affect the soil vorticity. After being wet for a month you started having problems.

Most of my soil is fox farms kokobop... great soil, coconut and other junk. Expensive... I dont want to through it out but I'm considering it... dont want to deal with the nasty disease this guy gave me next year... I want to do everything in my power to prevent it... if this had just been around okay, but I was attacked with biological weapon from an evil farmer, I know this wouldn't have been an issue if it weren't for him.

All I can do is cope this season i guess... which sucks it's georgia and humid... I'm fighting the rain wind and humidity more than the disease because the treatments all seem to be fairly ineffective... will see, will know more in a month, maybe get through the wettest part. Thinking in sprayinging an iodine solution, followed by a h2o2 solution still sounds like the best approach... iodine kills much, h2o2 kills much, when iodine acts as a catalyst for h2o2 and makes it react much much faster too.

Once these tomatoes are dead... I want to decontaminate the place. Suggestions welcome.

 

[gunslingor]

I use chlorantholanil on my tomatoes which seems to keep that fungus at bay. The main thing I had to figure out was is that it doesn't kill fungus. I thought that for several years myself. You would think a fungicide kills fungus but no. It is a misleading term. With Chlorantholanil you have to think of it as applying "Armor All" to your tires and the fungus doesn't stick to the tires because it is greasy. Rain and time/plant growth wears off the "Armor All" or creates cracks in it so the fungus can stick to the plant at some point. I havent used baking soda much but I think of it the same way. Copper however will kill and prevent fungus at the right concentration but will build up in the soil so its not a long term solution.

I think your right, everything you buy in the store is like armorall at best... but a point I made is that this is likely all a scam, sell methods of control not cures. Tough to get away with it in medicine, but farming... there is really only 2 umbrella companies that make these products these days. Fungicide by definition is "a chemical that destroys fungus". Zinc oxide is a weak chemical fungicide, simple, it basically absorbs its water and smoothers and dries. But there are stronger ones, like... I need this for plants!

https://my.clevelandclinic.org/heal...medication,injection in a healthcare facility.

 

[DirtMechanic]

If you have a fungus, you have an environmental or genetic issue. If you address those then the fungus won't be a problem. I can see you using a heavy soil mix with a lot of wood in the mix. That may be a big part of the problem because wood has to decompose and can affect the soil vorticity. After being wet for a month you started having problems.

That is a really good point and one not often brought up!

 

[gunslingor]

That is a really good point and one not often brought up!

Except that this happened only after I brought some guys diseased plant to my yard, and 3 days of rain which had happen before but no septoria. Plus his greenhouse was covered in it, he lied, i stupidly trusted. Some diseases are worse than others, some wipe out entire species... things were going so well, guess I got cocky.

Anyway, I cleared the brown and sprayed with h2o2 yesterday, copper was a joke seems h2o2 is as well probably. most likely. Because it rained last night. I don't know if it's the same disease, I would assume so just on a different tomatoe plant... there are black spots under the leaves, some leaves are purple... maybe I forgot to fertilize dealing with this this... dont recall ever seeing this many tiny black specks on the plant before.

These all appeared overnight, doubt it was the h2o2 but maybe it burned em out, maybe not, maybe just septoria splashing everywhere in the rain. If that is septoria, this shit is a hard exponential growth curve... not exponential, factorial. I don't think that's septoria, can't be, probably something new... my tomatoes are falling apart . Lucky I guess only 10 to 15% of the garden is affected. But everything is starting to struggle a bit, might replant my cucs and squash soon. Running a damb leopard colony I tell you man.

Man... I was awake 4 and 12 hours ago looking at these leaves, they were spotless... what problem do my little leopards have now? It puts the lotion on its skin or else it gets the hose again! I'm going mad. It's like trying to protect a kid with cancer, good luck buddy! Sell my dirt and move...

 

[gunslingor]

Except that this happened only after I brought some guys diseased plant to my yard, and 3 days of rain which had happen before but no septoria. Plus his greenhouse was covered in it, he lied, i stupidly trusted. Some diseases are worse than others, some wipe out entire species... things were going so well, guess I got cocky.

Anyway, I cleared the brown and sprayed with h2o2 yesterday, copper was a joke seems h2o2 is as well probably. most likely. Because it rained last night. I don't know if it's the same disease, I would assume so just on a different tomatoe plant... there are black spots under the leaves, some leaves are purple... maybe I forgot to fertilize dealing with this this... dont recall ever seeing this many tiny black specks on the plant before.

These all appeared overnight, doubt it was the h2o2 but maybe it burned em out, maybe not, maybe just septoria splashing everywhere in the rain. If that is septoria, this shit is a hard exponential growth curve... not exponential, factorial. I don't think that's septoria, can't be, probably something new... my tomatoes are falling apart . Lucky I guess only 10 to 15% of the garden is affected. But everything is starting to struggle a bit, might replant my cucs and squash soon. Running a damb leopard colony I tell you man.

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Man... I was awake 4 and 12 hours ago looking at these leaves, they were spotless... what problem do my little leopards have now? It puts the lotion on its skin or else it gets the hose again! I'm going mad. It's like trying to protect a kid with cancer, good luck buddy! Sell my dirt and move...

Guess I burned them somehow, has to be... think I got a little on my watermelon and they now have there own discoloring... so much for h2o2 1%... unless it kills the septoria permanently, fat chance. Strange only certain leaves got burned... I had a little extra and double sprayed some areas, those are the area that seem most affected but strangely only the old growth... all new growth seems unphased by the burn... so far anyway... now to start a post trying to figure out what alien exploded from my squash plants. Gardening so much fun.

 

[YumYum]

There will always be a dead or brown spot where the fungus was if you kill the fungus even when you cant physically see the fungus. I've never seen a leaf regrow the area back to green. The thing about using the peroxide is to kill and stop the fungus from eating the entire leaf.

 

[gunslingor]

There will always be a dead or brown spot where the fungus was if you kill the fungus even when you cant physically see the fungus. I've never seen a leaf regrow the area back to green. The thing about using the peroxide is to kill and stop the fungus from eating the entire leaf.

I think your right about that, still think I may have burned it... hope your right. Maybe these are all the leftovers that would have turned brown... hopefully the maters will be ready in a few weeks and I can sanitize the area.

 

[YumYum]

I think your right about that, still think I may have burned it... hope your right. Maybe these are all the leftovers that would have turned brown... hopefully the maters will be ready in a few weeks and I can sanitize the area.

I spray my vegetable starts (cabbage, broccoli, pepper, tomato, eggplant) with a hydrogen peroxide solution about weekly and it doesn't burn them and I've sprayed alot of them. I don't use any fungicide on those until after they go into the ground. I try not to let it rain on my transplants but If I leave them out in the rain for the fungus to start and then spray with the peroxide, they can get those brownish patches you show in your pictures but never until then.

 

[gunslingor]

I spray my vegetable starts (cabbage, broccoli, pepper, tomato, eggplant) with a hydrogen peroxide solution about weekly and it doesn't burn them and I've sprayed alot of them. I don't use any fungicide on those until after they go into the ground. I try not to let it rain on my transplants but If I leave them out in the rain for the fungus to start and then spray with the peroxide, they can get those brownish patches you show in your pictures but never until then.

One thing I think I realized, if the brown is the dead fungus, it's probably really the dead everything... the carcuses of the microbiom decomposing on the leaf... or maybe it is a septoria grave yard, that would be nice.

 

[DirtMechanic]

I have not seen septoria leaf spot on your pictures yet. What am I missing?

Septoria Leaf Canker - Information On Controlling Septoria Leaf Spot On Tomatoes

Septoria leaf canker primarily affects tomato plants and members of its family. It is a leaf spot disease that is first evident on the oldest leaves of the plants. Read this article to get tips for treating septoria leaf spot.

www.gardeningknowhow.com

 

[Heirloom farmer1969]

I have not seen Septoria leaf spot on your pictures yet. What am I missing?

Septoria Leaf Canker - Information On Controlling Septoria Leaf Spot On Tomatoes

Septoria leaf canker primarily affects tomato plants and members of its family. It is a leaf spot disease that is first evident on the oldest leaves of the plants. Read this article to get tips for treating septoria leaf spot.

www.gardeningknowhow.com

I was going to say the same thing.
A guy I know who lives about 20miles from me sent me pictures of his tomatoes that have septoria leaf blight, I was afraid to stop by his place to see them thinking I might bring it back with me; that's what our local extension office said it was and it looks nothing like what yours do.