Introducing Me ~ Jason from Australia

pepper2.0

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Getting a quality soil test to establish a baseline to measure against is so important. I've seen responses that say "I don't need no stinking soil test" when starting out...those are the predictable failures just waiting to happen.

You might find it interesting to read some of the posts from @redback from Gawler. Very interesting and thoughtful re the climate in Australia and growing gardens there. Unfortunately, @redback hasn't been heard from in a good while...since May of last year.

As I recall @redback mentioned a difficulty of getting soil tests there.

I'm saddened to no longer read the posts @redback made re Australia

I miss redback, he went MIA around the same time I did as the original pepper and his profile is MIA when I @ him. Wouldn't shock me he got banned by cactus boy.. I kind of recall redback sticking up for me and I'm sure cactus boy didn't like that. You might have to work your magic again @Meadowlark the way you did with @oneeye... check to see if redback has a band on him and ask him to come back now that the evil cactus warlock has been cast away to another dimension with his cactus princess demogorgon.
 

Oliver Buckle

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Thank you oneeye for your encouragement. A the age of 70 something - I am so looking forward to 'Spade work'! :LOL:
Got you, I turned 80 last September, and I don't go for digging too much.
Firstly my compost heap, it's made out of quartered four foot logs and takes everything, leaves, sticks, the lot. About once a year I go through it with the fork and anything not rotted down starts the next heap, the rotted stuff gets spread on the surface, at most I turn it lightly with the fork to mix in a bit of soil, after that I rely on the hoe. It will work its way into the soil fine without digging, where the heap has been will be lovely, full of micro life.
I take that spreading on the surface further, a 'horsey lady' down the road lets me dig out her old heap of horse manure, and that is treated the same way as the compost, and I actually spread a bit on the compost heap as well to help things along.
About the only time I do spade work is starting a new bed, when I take out the top soil and put wood down before putting it back. How long that will last depends on the wood, but it is going to be a matter of years at least before it needs digging of any sort. The disadvantage with compost heaps is anything within about eight foot is going to get 'slugged' to some degree, but that's not an initial problem usually.
In the OP you talk about 'difficult shape' and 'vertical gardening', does this mean you are on a hillside? That can be a real plus, a log wall and infill behind it to make it terraced, and voila, a nice little bed that won't need digging. It's amazing how quickly you can fill a space like that if everything goes in, wood at the bottom, then all the sweepings, emptied pots, spare bits of compost, anything and everything that would have gone in the bin, or a garden bin. If it is stuff like leaves, or green waste, I run the lawn mower over it first, and I try and mix lawn mowings in a bit so they don't make one solid block.
The other thing do is 'little by little', If there is something that is a fairly heavy job that would have taken me most of the day when I was thirty I'll spin it out over a week, or maybe two, and then do less demanding stuff , like planting seed or clearing up the greenhouse, for the rest of the day. There is always something, raking leaves out of corners, walking behind the mower, weeding a row, hoeing a patch, painting a fence, and in between, just a little bit of digging if I have to.
 

Meadowlark

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... demogorgon...
:eek: I had to look that one up.

I'm on it. I sure hope they didn't run @redback off...and I'll give it my best to seek the return of @redback.

His posts particularly about Australia were terrific...although sometimes we disagreed, it was always "professional" and constructive and always with intent about the best for gardening.
 

Meadowlark

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🙂 Hi peeps, I have a 'difficult' shaped block of land & have decided that I need to learn as much as I can about VERTICAL GARDENING.
@Jason1952 you might find this trellis helpful for your vertical gardening endeavors. It grows abundant cucumbers that are largely straight without curling due to the vertical growing. Available online in USA.

I have used cattle panels for trellising also, but these are really nice and portable.

vertical garden.jpg
 

redback

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The attachment is a method I have developed for getting rid of Spiders.
Well that's me gone then.
Good'ay Jason. If you are growing for food then just about every topic in 'organic' section is relevant. As Meadowlark suggested many of the best veges are grown on trellises. Tomatoes, beans, peas, cucumbers, watermelons are all capable of being tied up or have natural tendrils. That leaves potatoes, carrots, beets, lettuce, corn and herbs. Herbs can be grown in pots fairly effectively. All the rest can be planted in small batches and then continuously replanted as succession crops.
I'm seventy something as well. Spade work is good for you. Your sand will need a lot of added organic matter to become more water absorbent. You will spend all your effort in building better soil each year. Start small and grow.
 

redback

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I just looked at aerial maps of North Frankston and blocks of land look very small. Instead of vertical gardens you might consider
1. community gardens
2. your roadside verge.
3. sprouts.
Sprouts are underestimated and are a source of high nutrition. Look at 'her 86m2' You tube video (which I have no interest in).
This woman does a great job growing and presenting meals made of sprouts grown inside.
 

redback

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You might also consider berries and plants that climb such as -
grapes, kiwi fruit, passionfruit, blackberries, raspberries or cantaloupe.
Espaliered fruit trees are popular in the 'burbs.
 

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