Hi,
WOW I almost missed this thread due to being so busy.
Congratulations Silentrunning on bagging a lovely machine to play with; this is the kind of machine I enjoy restoring and upgrading.
I'm interested in its specifications; depth of cut; throat to blade width; band wheel diameters and very importantly the type of motor drive; is it belt or direct drive; if it's belt drive then it's easy enough to replace pulleys to give woodcutting speeds unless its already running at the correct speed. Here's a snippet I cheekly lifted from the web which gives a good basic speed;
Question:
My bandsaw can be operated at more than one speed. Which is the best speed for cutting wood and should I change speeds for certain wood cutting tasks and using different blades?
Answer:
Some models of bandsaws do provide the ability to alter the speed of the blade (usually expressed as FPM – feet per minute). The change of speed is usually accomplished by moving a drive belt to a secondary location on the pulley(s) of the drive pulley and motor pulley. Typically the speed to use for all of your wood cutting tasks with your bandsaw, regardless of the blade width or tooth configuration on the blade, would be the listed speed that is closest to 3000 FPM.
The secondary speed offered on bandsaws with multiple speed capabilities is usually a speed that is one-half to one-third the speed of the (approximately) 3000 FPM speed. This slower speed is suitable when cutting some non-ferrous metals like copper, brass and aluminum and perhaps some very mild, thin steel. (This is why some manufacturers over the years called some models of bandsaws wood & metal cutting saws.) Of course you’d want to be using an appropriate blade for cutting metal to get the best results. You may also want to consider providing a lubricant when cutting metal. Keep in mind that bandsaws specifically designed for only cutting metal can have special oil delivery spray nozzles and capture, filter & recirculation systems to handle the oil used for lubrication.
If you use a lubricant for the occasional metal cutting task on your bandsaw, be sure to clean up the saw really well to remove all traces of the oil before you begin to cut wood again. If not, the oil residue may contaminate your wood and show up as a finishing problem later on.
It's 3 phase so can you run 3 phase; I note the motor is 208-220/440V. What size is the motor either in KW or HP. Are the wheel tires in good condition; blade guides can be arranged either with bearings or something like Tufnol blocks but the rear guides will need to be proper bearings which are cheap enough.
Stripping it and repainting will bring it up looking like new; the sliding table arrangement looks interesting and useful; I'd ignore it not having tilting capability I seldom use mine in this mode; I'd love such a bandsaw to play around with and it's much better than the modern "tinny" lightweight bandsaws it being industrial. As you say check all bearings etc for wear and replace if at all in doubt; this has the makings of an excellent woodcutting bandsaw with a bit of imagination and plenty of TLC; once sorted it will never wear out. Bandsaw blades can be bought in any length and TPI so you'll not have a problem obtaining blades.
I'm more concerned that its 3 phase; if you can run 3 phase then its very easy otherwise it becomes a lot more complicated although depending on the motor it could be possible to replace the motor with single phase together with a suitable DOL (direct on line) starter; motors can be bought through eBay secondhand also new starters are readily available but if you aren't used to playing with electricity it could get a bit dangerous because mains voltages kill and take no prisoners; single phase motors with capacitor can give you a nasty surprise if the capacitor remains fully charged and you come into contact with it; I find WITH POWER TURNED OFF simply bridge the capacitor connections using a well insulated screwdriver; better to see a pretty blue flash like this and do it a number of times because caps can be naughty and retain a bit of charge.
It is indeed a pity we live so distant SR otherwise I'd have been encouraging you to bring this nice machine back into useful service. Bandsaws generally aren't complicated to restore; years ago I bought a big Startrite Volant 24" that would cut anything I cared to throw at it with the correct blade installed; this was industrial it being 3 phase with a ten speed gearbox; because I don't have 3 phase laid on I installed my own 3 phase but it was hugely complicated and highly dangerous involving winding a big transformer and phase balancing the saw to the transformer but then I'm mad enough for anything. I ran this big bandsaw for a number of years but it was simply too big taking up a large footprint so I sold it to a company who are attempting the land speed record so it went to a good home; I've since sold the big transformer to an electrical friend so I'm confident I won't electrocute anyone.
I could (and do) go on forever when it comes to restoring/upgrading old machines. My big woodturning lathe is a Union Graduate it have been fully restored and highly modified by me; this is 3 phase but I now run it through a VFD and depending what you want to do SR a VFD could power your bandsaw in 3 phase; I could really have enjoyed watching you restore your bandsaw and I'll be interested to see what you decide to do; I certainly wouldn't simply sell it without first having a go at converting it for wood cutting; bandsaws are very basic machines; some are fancier than others but really they only use a blade to cut the material. My Startrite was equipped with onboard blade cutter and blade welder.
Here's an absolutely brilliant video well worth watching for anyone new to bandsaws in a home workshop;
Yes I'm really slipping up MaryMary in not seeing this excellent thread but better late than never and I do so hope SR hasn't already sold this bandsaw because I'd like to see him get his hands dirty and enjoy giving it a full restoration even if only for the enjoyment of doing it.
Enough for now but good luck SR and if I can help in any way I'll be glad to; a clone of me in The States; now that would be different.
Kind regards, Colin.
Startrite Volant 24" top coated. Please note bearings used as wheels.
Capacitor bank phase balancing bandsaw to transformer; highly dangerous and NOT recommended at all.
Looking good and in full working order.
Blade cutter/welder and grinder together with new controls. An interesting restoration.
In etching primer ready for top coat being sprayed using compressor and HVLP spray gun.
