Mr_Yan
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- Jul 3, 2020
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- Western Michigan
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I'm a little (lot) late to this fun party but @Meadowlark you're trying something like what I've done for several seasons now. I use this method to fill my raised beds but they also have an open bottom to native soil where your's are only highly perforated. The key though is they get better with age but you'll also experience soil level drop over the first three or so years. The amount of level drop you experience will be largely based on what you filled the beds with.
I have also moved to adding green stuff and kitchen veg scraps into the mix when building the bed. This makes it some hybrid of lasagna garden and wood core hugel-eske construction.
As I do raised beds I don't rototill but I don't expect it would work well in this style.
I do think I see nitrogen lock up around the second year so watch out for that. And don't bother with carrots for at least the first two years.
Once the wood rots the heavy watering will end. I started my current beds with rotting wood so I don't have the watering problems you're seeing.
On a symantic side I would say this will never be hugelekulture but uses a key feature of the hugele construction. I call these wood core beds. Hugelekulture uses this wood core as a base when originally built but form a serpintine hill where the sides are planted greatly increasing the area. You're building the bulk of the hugel here but lacking the long term kulture portion. One blog I used to read called this "half-assed-hugelkulture".
I don't have a pic from today's garden but I the brown wood framed garden pic is from a few weeks ago. The white framed garden was at my old house. The bulk of each of these beds were ugly sticks, even some 2x4 material, topped with loamy soil for the first year.
I have also moved to adding green stuff and kitchen veg scraps into the mix when building the bed. This makes it some hybrid of lasagna garden and wood core hugel-eske construction.
As I do raised beds I don't rototill but I don't expect it would work well in this style.
I do think I see nitrogen lock up around the second year so watch out for that. And don't bother with carrots for at least the first two years.
Once the wood rots the heavy watering will end. I started my current beds with rotting wood so I don't have the watering problems you're seeing.
On a symantic side I would say this will never be hugelekulture but uses a key feature of the hugele construction. I call these wood core beds. Hugelekulture uses this wood core as a base when originally built but form a serpintine hill where the sides are planted greatly increasing the area. You're building the bulk of the hugel here but lacking the long term kulture portion. One blog I used to read called this "half-assed-hugelkulture".
I don't have a pic from today's garden but I the brown wood framed garden pic is from a few weeks ago. The white framed garden was at my old house. The bulk of each of these beds were ugly sticks, even some 2x4 material, topped with loamy soil for the first year.