Need Ideas for New Greenhouse in 8b

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We are still at the planning stage, jumping through town's Design Review Board and PAYING for the priviledge of them deciding whether to let us do our own Greenhouse in our backyard (and we are not even in historic district)....so if they give us the OK, we want to build a 10x16 recycled window style, gable ends with coregated clear plastic roof, exhaust fan. I am thinking to hang shade cloth on curtains inside to shade the intensity when needed. I am attaching a photo of the backyard and position of where we might place it. It will have mostly full sun all day. We live in 8b (SC) and will use it to extend our season for veggies (bells, tomatoes, canteloupe, lettuces, etc). In the middle of summer, we can get 100+ even so I plan on throwing shade cloth over the whole thing (I guess).

The attached photo of the greenhouse is very close to what we want...other than coregated clear roofing panels and gravel floor with brick paver in walkway.

What am I forgetting or other ideas ?
 

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Have read a few things that say gable ends should face North/South...right now, our plan to position our new one is East/West for the gable ends (see backyard pic). I was thinking the one side of gh would get sun all day and the other (less sun) would be good for plants that dont want so much sun. I am planning on installing shade cloth on the sun side for late afternoon when the sun gets brutal.

What is the best way ? Logic behind it ?
 
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Translucent panel. No way clear works near or below latitude 33 here year round. Have a notice of the commercial grower greenhouses around you and you see translucent roof panel, even walls. This website and others have a membership and basis that exists in far more northerly latitudes and that can trip you up. Tropical plants can be grown out in zone 9.
 
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This has to be one of my favourite subjects. In earlier years (ages ago) I had four very big, home built greenhouses for my propagating business. These were built as a timber frame with pitched roof. They were in manageable sections and with 3x2inch timber. Each was 12 feet wide, and about 30 feet long. They were positioned approximately north to south, because most of the strong winds came from the south west, hitting the houses corner wise. These frames were then covered with tunnel polythene, and so were efficient for the plants as they included the right filters for the sun etc - as polytunnels, but stronger. This was cost effective, and easy to repair if any damage occurred. Being timber, I could easily attach hooks and all sorts of interior structures with hammer and nails, and cut some squares out of the polythene when the structures were up to make opening vents for air circulation.
The best part of my life seemed to be happily spent in these houses - at least 35 years!
The very last one came down just recently when it was replaced by a nice big shed. :unsure:

Incidentally, shade netting is invaluable. I would start by covering the house in its entirety, and only take it back a stretch if needed. It is so easy to roll it back into position when needed.
 
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Yes, but the whole thing was sunny most of the time, and it only shaded down in the summer by about 3pm
 
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Our backyard gets the sun at a little angle, so one side will get more than the other.

Let me ask another question about the shade cloth. We use 50% black on the in ground gardens now so I was thinking to do the same on the greenhouse. I was thinking to do 1 full side of the greenhouse - on the INSIDE of the building so wouldnt have to deal with getting it over the roof (16' high) or maybe its better to have the cloth on the OUTSIDE of the building so it will keep the glass windows from getting as hot too. I could rig some sort of pulley/ropes to raise and lower the cloth each day as the sun gets "hot" around 3pm. I was thinking to rig ropes/pulley inside, but I can also rig something outside to keep the glass blocked too. This GH is going to be all recycled windows.
 
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1680298646557.png
We are using this kind of shade netting on our tunnels and Ziggy's cactus house. We have also used the same material for wind break fences. It works very well.
If you can find timber windows, you will undoubtedly find them more useful. It is much easier to use the netting on the outside of the house.
PS We don't have any trouble moving the netting if needed. We just do it between us and roll it back from both sides. It should slide easily over a smaller construction.
 
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Our backyard gets the sun at a little angle, so one side will get more than the other.

Let me ask another question about the shade cloth. We use 50% black on the in ground gardens now so I was thinking to do the same on the greenhouse. I was thinking to do 1 full side of the greenhouse - on the INSIDE of the building so wouldnt have to deal with getting it over the roof (16' high) or maybe its better to have the cloth on the OUTSIDE of the building so it will keep the glass windows from getting as hot too. I could rig some sort of pulley/ropes to raise and lower the cloth each day as the sun gets "hot" around 3pm. I was thinking to rig ropes/pulley inside, but I can also rig something outside to keep the glass blocked too. This GH is going to be all recycled windows.
This screening outside is correct for heat. There are fiberglass solar screen products at the top of the market, sold for buildings, that have a variety of opacity levels and very good longevity in the sun. Not the less expensive option and not as flexible and not usually available in very large sizes. It is however exactly what you describe for heat control.
 
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Thanks DM. We will probably stick with simple/cheaper for now and see how it goes in our backyard project. I will figure a way to "rig" it to be easy to pull up and down over the roof (16 ft gable). Some sort of rope and pulley deal.
 
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I have never had reason to shade a greenhouse, but when I think of those of my brother, father and uncle they were shaded with a limewash on the glass. It inhibits algae, paints on with a big brush, washes off easily, and discourages algae. It was fairly cheap too.
I wondered if you can still get limewash, a quick Google shows you can, but it might be a bit more of a niche (expensive) market, but you would only need a small amount and water it down well.
 
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The shade cloth is for blocking the SUN...that sucker gets blistering in the middle of summer. We havent even built the GH yet, but some people have to "close" the GH when it gets that hot.
 
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The whitewash that @Oliver Buckle mentions IS to block the sun - it is the old fashioned method, and worked very well for gardeners over the space of many years. Air circulation is also important when it gets hotter, so make sure there are plenty of openers!

Ha ha, Zigs just called out, ''if he wants to block out all the sun, he'll have to use blackwash, and if he wants to keep pigs out, best use hogwash - for keeping flies out, it's screenwash'' :giggle:
 
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Ahhhh, sorry. :) Didnt understand. He mentioned algae so I thought it was mainly for that. Cool. Well maybe I will have to look into that too. I do have a 20" exhaust fan planned in the back gable top and smaller one in the front ground level to bring in cooler air. I also plan to have the top row of all windows open-able.

Speaking of windows...do you folks recommend the top of the window open or the bottom of the window ? If top of the window, then the hot air can escape faster, but rain may be a factor. The bottom of the window opening would prevent rain from getting in but the hot air wouldnt. I guess most of the hot air will be collecting in the gable section so the fans will take care of that.
 

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