Tomato plant shriveling - help

[Norm]

Hi,

My Black Prince tomato plant seems to be shriveling for some reason. The leaves are going dry and curling. It has automated irrigation near its roots. It gets water twice a week and fertilizer twice a month. I can see the soil wet at times so the irrigation is working. The flowers dry out and die too.

Any ideas what might be the problem ? A San Marzano I planted near it is doing fine.

TIA!

Norm

 

[Chuck]

Hi,

My Black Prince tomato plant seems to be shriveling for some reason. The leaves are going dry and curling. It has automated irrigation near its roots. It gets water twice a week and fertilizer twice a month. I can see the soil wet at times so the irrigation is working. The flowers dry out and die too.

Any ideas what might be the problem ? A San Marzano I planted near it is doing fine.

TIA!
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Norm

If I were to guess I'd say that you have a grub worm or two eating on the roots. It isn't blight and it probably isn't a virus because your other tomato is OK.

 

[Norm]

Thanks Chuck,
How do I fix it ? I do spray the plant with neem oil, but thats just the above the ground...

TIA.

 

[Chuck]

Thanks Chuck,
How do I fix it ? I do spray the plant with neem oil, but thats just the above the ground...

TIA.

I have not had any luck killing grubs underground but it might not be a grub. I might be a cutworm. It is worth taking a chance that it is. And if so just make a soil drench out of spinosad and water the plants roots thoroughly.

 

[headfullofbees]

3% hydrogen peroxide for soil pests, but that's not your problem.
Cutworms will eat through the stem and the plant will collapse, however, they usually attack younger, more tender plants.
The two most common reasons for tomato leaf curl (let's leave out viruses, because your plants don't look to have any) are:
1) Wild temperature swings. This would account for both, as tomato fruit setting doesn't like too hot or too cold. You can either cover your plants at night with horticultural fleece, or, if it's unusual, and unlikely to reoccur, just live with it.
2) Poor watering: how long after you irrigate can you see the soil wet?
Do you have clay soil?
Do your plants ever wilt, even slightly?
I'd say that your problem is likely to be overwatering, and that, if you have clay soil, you cut back to watering twice and feeding once in 15 days at 5 day intervals.
If your soil is sandy, cut the watering time in half. and remain on your current schedule.
I only use automated irrigation in my greenhouses and polytunnel, where it doesn't rain.

 

[headfullofbees]

Further reading:
https://dengarden.com/gardening/Hydrogen-Peroxide-for-Plants

 

[Norm]

3% hydrogen peroxide for soil pests, but that's not your problem.
Cutworms will eat through the stem and the plant will collapse, however, they usually attack younger, more tender plants.
The two most common reasons for tomato leaf curl (let's leave out viruses, because your plants don't look to have any) are:
1) Wild temperature swings. This would account for both, as tomato fruit setting doesn't like too hot or too cold. You can either cover your plants at night with horticultural fleece, or, if it's unusual, and unlikely to reoccur, just live with it.
2) Poor watering: how long after you irrigate can you see the soil wet?
Do you have clay soil?
Do your plants ever wilt, even slightly?
I'd say that your problem is likely to be overwatering, and that, if you have clay soil, you cut back to watering twice and feeding once in 15 days at 5 day intervals.
If your soil is sandy, cut the watering time in half. and remain on your current schedule.
I only use automated irrigation in my greenhouses and polytunnel, where it doesn't rain.

Hi Headfull,

Thanks for your reply.

It doesnt get too cold here at night and the highest it has gotten of late was 90 so it may not be temp swings.
I can see the soil wet until the end of the day of watering.
I don't know if I have clay or sandy soil, any easy way to find out other than testing in lab ?
My other plants and trees don't show any signs of wilting. This one does at times when it gets very hot (90+).
There is a San Marzano abt 3 feet away from this one thats doing just fine. Its on the same watering schedule/system.
What do you mean by "in 15 days at 5 day intervals" ?

-Norm

 

[Doelman]

You can do a field test to get an idea of what kind of clay/sand content you have, we do a similar test in the lab at our office.

http://soilquality.org.au/factsheets/soil-texture

 

[headfullofbees]

Hi Headfull,

Thanks for your reply.

It doesnt get too cold here at night and the highest it has gotten of late was 90 so it may not be temp swings.
I can see the soil wet until the end of the day of watering.
I don't know if I have clay or sandy soil, any easy way to find out other than testing in lab ?
My other plants and trees don't show any signs of wilting. This one does at times when it gets very hot (90+).
There is a San Marzano abt 3 feet away from this one thats doing just fine. Its on the same watering schedule/system.
What do you mean by "in 15 days at 5 day intervals" ?

-Norm

Day 1 Water/ Days 2/3/4/5 nothing/ Day 6 feed/ Days 7/8/9/10 nothing Day 11 water, Days 12/13/14/15 nothing...

To test your drainage, dig a hole, fill it with water, see how long it takes to empty.

As for the San Marzano, it could like more water or it could be near tree roots that use some of it, or you may have a patch of ground which drains better.
There are a huge number of variables.
We can only try to help with problems as we are shown them.
If it was a virus, or pest, chances are your Marzano would be suffering too.
As it's not, we can afford to leave the problem tomato there, and treat for what we hope the problem is.
Btw, tomatoes grow best between ~ 65 & 77F

 

[Norm]

Ok, so I observed, the wetness of the soil after automated watering (I wanted to do this before I pulled out the irrigation to go for manual watering). It seems like the soil looks wet at the top 1 day after the watering happens. This means it doesn't drain well right ? I had used a potting mix when planting this plant into the ground ( this one ). Its funny that the plant would look dried out with rustled leaves if the problem was not good drainage, is that possible ?
Meanwhile, the San Marzano nearby was planted straight into the ground with no potting mix etc (since I had run out)

I really want to save this plant.

 

[headfullofbees]

If the wetness of the soil is such that the roots have rotted, they would not be able to take up water.
Try foliar spray watering for a week.

 

[Norm]

Alright, time for some good news. It looked like it was overwatered.
Turned off automatic, went to manual, foliage spray, peroxide and the plant looks like its recovered.
I also threw in the peroxide for root rot and soil areation per the article from headful.

And now...
I've had my first few Black Prince tomatoes! They are so good. Sweet, full of flavor.
I was SO tired of the bland grocery store ones (other than the occasional campari or kumato).

The San Marzano were a bit disappointing, not as intense as I expected, I'll have to try another variety next year. Suggestions are welcome.

Thanks all. Happy growing!

 

[headfullofbees]

You are most welcome.