Hello all-- I have a pear tree with fire blight that I've been battling for a couple of years. I have from the beginning been pruning off infected branches (sterilizing my cutting tool with alcohol between cuts), but that did nothing to prevent it from spreading to other branches. I applied copper for the first time last summer, and that seemed to help quite a bit, though only for a little while. (But I will definitely apply it again this year, probably at least a couple of times). I was thinking of getting and applying Fertilome's Fire Blight Spray (2 ounce container) with streptomycin sulfate. Though some professionals say it works only as a preventative, some people who have used it say it has helped clear their trees up and brought them back from the brink. There do appear to be ecological effects, so I would apply it only to that one infected tree. (https://www.fertilome.com/ProductFiles/10363_7401-311_Ferti-lome Fire Blight Spray_SDS.pdf) ; I've contacted Fertilome to try to figure out if I should avoid applying it at all given that I have a garden immediately adjacent to the tree, and I have three dogs who run all over the yard. (I could just keep them out of the backyard for a few days after application, if necessary.) Has anyone here had experience using it for fire blight in fruit trees? And in a small city setting? (I don't want to spray this if negative side effects/potential impacts to my dogs and garden outweigh the positives). I do have another cross-pollinating pear tree close to the infected one, but that one hasn't been impacted by the blight at all, and at this point I doubt it will. I also have four apple trees on the other side of the yard with no signs of the blight, but occasional caterpillar infestations. I did just purchase a "Holistic Orchard Spray Kit" with six components to be used along with two others (biodegradable dish soap and molasses) that I supply on my own. (https://www.fedcoseeds.com/ogs/holistic-orchard-spray-kit-8657) I'll definitely use all that stuff on my uninfected trees, along with the infected one. I feel like if I can't turn this pear tree around by the end of this summer or maybe two Octobers from now, I'll chop it down. Don't know how the other uninfected pear tree can be so resistant, but if I do chop the blighted one down, it would be great to replace it with one that is fairly resistant, if that's possible. Since the two cross-pollinate, I'll need to stick some kind of pear tree in it's place if I want to keep getting fruit. Sorry for the long post....