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Hey, I’m thinking about growing cherry tomato (gold nugget) in September to expect harvest in October-November as it is still warm here.
I want to buy new soil and got really confused when shopping. First I saw a 40L potting soil for 17.09€ then cheaper options such as organic composted soil 50L for 6.19€. I would appreciate if someone could help me pick the right soil
 

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I'm probably going to get some angry replies for this... but here are my two cents. Someone with more experience will probably reply as well once I post this lol.

So my experience is very limited, but I have done loads of research. Since nobody has replied to this yet, and I'm sure you're hoping for one, I will give it a shot!

So the terminology between opposite sides of the world seems to be a bit different. Generally you have "potting SOIL" and "compost". The term "composted soil" confuses me as well. What would help is if you could post an ingredients list of each as I cannot read the language when looking the products up myself! In my opinion, whatever bag has "peat moss" as the main ingredient and is the cheapest will be just fine for you. Just get any bag of organic granular fertilizer that is also the cheapest and throw some handfuls in.

Compost is usually a soil "amendment". It's organic matter that you would mix into your existing soil to improve it.
Conditioner is kind of the same thing. Though this is much closer in texture and composition to regular soil, it is meant to be added into existing soil to improve its quality.

Potting soil is mostly peat moss, then has compost, woodchips, some fertilizers mixed in. From what I've seen, the higher the price, the more peat moss it has and the "prettier" the soil looks. If you want to achieve the same thing you can buy a bag of peat moss separately along with the cheapest soil you can find or one of those bags of compost, mix them 50/50 then add 30% of the compost (if you want improve it even more), and then throw in any organic granular fertilizer that's on sale. This will save you loads of money in the long run.

Are you planting in pots or in the ground? If it's in the ground then you can save some money by buying cheaper soil that doesn't have "potting" in the name.

Most packaging nowadays is very flashy and shows off "organic", "biotech", etc. These are just buzzwords and in my opinion can be ignored. Pretty much all "potting soil" and other bagged soil you buy will be mostly peat moss. It's not very environmentally friendly, but it is what the majority of the world uses, and it's cheap (in most areas). You can buy the cheapest bag, then buy any "organic granular fertilizer" and throw a few handfuls into your pot and mix it in. This will give you a soil that will work FINE.

Check out the ingredients of those bags and let us know. I'm guessing the first two are just compost, and the second two are very expensive potting soil. If you feel like it, find the cheapest stuff you have available and post it up here. It doesn't need to be organic as there will hardly be anything of worth in it. That's what the organic granular is for.
 
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That's very useful. Explanations are so much more helpful than just a short answer.

Interestingly, peat moss is no longer used in the UK. It's hard to find and it's use frowned upon because of what it does to the environment. I think they use coir instead.

I'm keen to make my own for my container plants. Taking the plunge next year and very nervous in case I get it wrong.
 
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That's very useful. Explanations are so much more helpful than just a short answer.

Interestingly, peat moss is no longer used in the UK. It's hard to find and it's use frowned upon because of what it does to the environment. I think they use coir instead.

I'm keen to make my own for my container plants. Taking the plunge next year and very nervous in case I get it wrong.
Yes if you have better access to coco coir use that! I was going to mention it, but I thought I had already written too much... Fascinating... I didn't know you could make your own peat moss? I guess I was under the impression that it'd take years or decades of piling matter into a wet bog or something :ROFLMAO: . I'm going to have to look this up!
 
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Yes if you have better access to coco coir use that! I was going to mention it, but I thought I had already written too much... Fascinating... I didn't know you could make your own peat moss? I guess I was under the impression that it'd take years or decades of piling matter into a wet bog or something :ROFLMAO: . I'm going to have to look this up!
Sorry, that was a bit ambiguous.

I mean I want to make my own potting mix! I'd use coir, compost and not sure what else. I have a huge patio so I need to have plenty of containers to keep it looking nice. It always looks great, but in the past I've always used store bought compost. It's scary making my own for the first time.
 
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I just bought a couple bags of sta-green potting mix from Lowes which is the cheap stuff. It didn't seem to have any peat moss in it unlike miracle gro potting mix. It looked like ground up tree bark and smelled like horse sh-poop. I still cant get that smell of my hands. So they aren't all the same mixture. Anyways I'd say it would grow tomatoes fine since I would add some fertilizer anyways.
 
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I just bought a couple bags of sta-green potting mix from Lowes which is the cheap stuff. It didn't seem to have any peat moss in it unlike miracle gro potting mix. It looked like ground up tree bark and smelled like horse sh-poop. I still cant get that smell of my hands. So they aren't all the same mixture. Anyways I'd say it would grow tomatoes fine since I would add some fertilizer anyways.
Yikes, experience trumps research as usual... Come to think of it, I have gotten some pretty gnarly bags of potting soil, especially nowadays when it looks like companies are trying to cut costs. So maybe I'll change my answer to "mid-priced" bags lol.

Sorry, that was a bit ambiguous.

I mean I want to make my own potting mix! I'd use coir, compost and not sure what else. I have a huge patio so I need to have plenty of containers to keep it looking nice. It always looks great, but in the past I've always used store bought compost. It's scary making my own for the first time.
Ohhh I see haha. Definitely save yourself an arm and leg by mixing your own soil. I make a spreadsheet and crunch some numbers to find the best price/cubic foot (or meter). Initial investment is high, but a big bag of perlite and coir will do wonders for a crappy bag of soil that's mostly wood and shattered dreams. But as YumYum noted... if it smells like sh-..poop, you may want to let it sit for a month and break down more. Unfortunately (or fortunately?) I can't say any of this is from actual experience though... yet.

So, its funny you talk about starting composting as well... I just started my first compost bin (small 32gal trashcan with holes drilled in it). I was super nervous about it, thinking about the smell/bugs/general nastiness, and it is wayyyyy more chill than I thought it'd be. I have an endless supply of cardboard and a 24sheet paper shredder I found for $10. I just kept adding cardboard if I ever smelt anything, and it's sitting at 110degF pretty steady. All the horror stories I've heard of compost (at least from my experience) sound like people not adding enough browns. Every time I open the lid I'm shocked at the fact I only smell plants and dirt... and I've thrown some pretty gnarly stuff in there :ROFLMAO: .
 
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Heyy, well to be honest with you I didn’t think I’d get a response today but thanks for the fast answers!

Thanks for the tips as well. I think I’m gonna go with the last one. Turns out it’s soil with the right pH and already has compost and bioprem. Plus the soil is specially made to meet the needs of vegetables
 
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Heyy, well to be honest with you I didn’t think I’d get a response today but thanks for the fast answers!

Thanks for the tips as well. I think I’m gonna go with the last one. Turns out it’s soil with the right pH and already has compost and bioprem. Plus the soil is specially made to meet the needs of vegetables
Nice do it, it'll probably be fantastic stuff :D
 
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The thing about these pottings soils is drainage, but then there is the heat that dries away the moisture. I had 20 7 gallon grow bags that I used for celebrity tomatoes one summer. I used a cement mixer which pretty much fills a wheel barrow. I guess it was 2 grow bags or so per load. Anyway it was mostly vermiculite and because the bags were on saucers while it drained, the saucers helped keep my watering down to once per week even in the deep hot summer of Alabama. I used a bag of topsoil in a load, and mixed Tomato Tone in as well. The cheap topsoil was kinda barky, with some compost, clay and sand. The overall mix did not compact too much over the season, nor did it get too hydrophobic if it dried up. Vermiculite would be about the wettest thing I could see using. The coir and peat will drain better really, but then there you go with watering schedules. And compost can be 10 percent, since you fertilize anyway. Compost will muck up when wet so it is pretty horrible in a pot when overdone. It is probably best to use a determinant in a pot. The indeterminants can grow monster roots to match their lanky, viney ways up top.
 
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The thing about these pottings soils is drainage, but then there is the heat that dries away the moisture. I had 20 7 gallon grow bags that I used for celebrity tomatoes one summer. I used a cement mixer which pretty much fills a wheel barrow. I guess it was 2 grow bags or so per load. Anyway it was mostly vermiculite and because the bags were on saucers while it drained, the saucers helped keep my watering down to once per week even in the deep hot summer of Alabama. I used a bag of topsoil in a load, and mixed Tomato Tone in as well. The cheap topsoil was kinda barky, with some compost, clay and sand. The overall mix did not compact too much over the season, nor did it get too hydrophobic if it dried up. Vermiculite would be about the wettest thing I could see using. The coir and peat will drain better really, but then there you go with watering schedules. And compost can be 10 percent, since you fertilize anyway. Compost will muck up when wet so it is pretty horrible in a pot when overdone. It is probably best to use a determinant in a pot. The indeterminants can grow monster roots to match their lanky, viney ways up top.
Perhaps you can clear up something else that confuses me.

I am using the no-dig approach on my raised beds. Just 2 inches of garden compost spread on top of the beds each year and no fertilizer needed. My understanding is that the garden compost feeds the organisms in the soil and they essentially provide all the food the plants need.

Presumably it doesn't work this way when you use compost in containers? I can appreciate that if you let the containers dry out the organisms will die. But even if you keep them moist, I gather that garden compost (mixed with coir, vermiculite etc) won't be enough to feed plants for an entire season?
 
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I mostly make up my own mixes for pots, but I tend to use the commercial stuff for starting seed just because it is seed free and I get no weeds, top soil with a little compost is good, seeds don't need a lot of food to germinate.
Stuff I add that comes free (except for the work).

Leaf mould. Has almost no nutrient in it, its benefit is in water retention and drainage, if you put leaf mould in a pot and add water until it comes out at the bottom it will hold more of the water than anything else, but the water will also stop coming out at the bottom before anything else.

Sharp sand. Horticultural sand is expensive, but it is basically washed sharp sand. Sometimes it can be mined where there is salt or brackish water, so I cut the top off the bag and wait until it rains and fills the bag up, then make holes in the bottom to drain it (Assuming it will rain again :) ). It helps drainage to a degree, but it also promotes root growth, I go heavy on it for cuttings.

Wood ash. Has potash in it, in the old days gunpowder was made using potash washed out of wood ash, great for flowering.

Clay and burnt clay. I have heavy clay soil. When I have raked out a lot of dry lumps I put them through the sieve and then put the larger stuff in the incinerator when I have a fire. It makes a sort of coarse terracotta which is great for drainage, much lighter than sand. The finer stuff is mostly clay that has knocked off the lumps, people curse clay, but those tiny particles get water around them that holds nutrients, like most things, it is good in moderation.

Organic material, mostly hedge cuttings and what pulls out of the bottom of the hedge, that I don't want to just add to the compost. I put it through the mower then sieve it, and the small stuff goes in an old compost bag turned inside out so it is black. At that stage it is usually pretty dry, so I add water with half strength tomato feed and stand it in the sun, By next year it will be a lovely black compost with the occasional wood chip. The bigger stuff goes straight on the garden as mulch.

Top soil, a bit of sieved top soil gives it weight and bulk. If I am making something up I usually start with that and all the soil from the pots where things have failed.

Manure, well rotted. This is the main source for nitrogen, be careful the people you get it from are not using herbicides on their hay, some grass herbicides are deemed 'safe' because they go straight through the animal. That means they are in the manure still and will kill anything but grass in your garden.

My own compost, anything I have composted, but the better it has composted the less weed seed there will be in it, stuff I am less sure about I will put direct onto the garden, places like under the runner beans, or mulch where it will get hoed.
 
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I mostly make up my own mixes for pots, but I tend to use the commercial stuff for starting seed just because it is seed free and I get no weeds, top soil with a little compost is good, seeds don't need a lot of food to germinate.
Stuff I add that comes free (except for the work).

Leaf mould. Has almost no nutrient in it, its benefit is in water retention and drainage, if you put leaf mould in a pot and add water until it comes out at the bottom it will hold more of the water than anything else, but the water will also stop coming out at the bottom before anything else.

Sharp sand. Horticultural sand is expensive, but it is basically washed sharp sand. Sometimes it can be mined where there is salt or brackish water, so I cut the top off the bag and wait until it rains and fills the bag up, then make holes in the bottom to drain it (Assuming it will rain again :) ). It helps drainage to a degree, but it also promotes root growth, I go heavy on it for cuttings.

Wood ash. Has potash in it, in the old days gunpowder was made using potash washed out of wood ash, great for flowering.

Clay and burnt clay. I have heavy clay soil. When I have raked out a lot of dry lumps I put them through the sieve and then put the larger stuff in the incinerator when I have a fire. It makes a sort of coarse terracotta which is great for drainage, much lighter than sand. The finer stuff is mostly clay that has knocked off the lumps, people curse clay, but those tiny particles get water around them that holds nutrients, like most things, it is good in moderation.

Organic material, mostly hedge cuttings and what pulls out of the bottom of the hedge, that I don't want to just add to the compost. I put it through the mower then sieve it, and the small stuff goes in an old compost bag turned inside out so it is black. At that stage it is usually pretty dry, so I add water with half strength tomato feed and stand it in the sun, By next year it will be a lovely black compost with the occasional wood chip. The bigger stuff goes straight on the garden as mulch.

Top soil, a bit of sieved top soil gives it weight and bulk. If I am making something up I usually start with that and all the soil from the pots where things have failed.

Manure, well rotted. This is the main source for nitrogen, be careful the people you get it from are not using herbicides on their hay, some grass herbicides are deemed 'safe' because they go straight through the animal. That means they are in the manure still and will kill anything but grass in your garden.

My own compost, anything I have composted, but the better it has composted the less weed seed there will be in it, stuff I am less sure about I will put direct onto the garden, places like under the runner beans, or mulch where it will get hoed.
That's awesome. Thank you.

I have easy access to all of that. I wonder if you can use sand off the beach if you rinse it very thoroughly?

My husband is in charge of composting. We have three big 1 meter square bins, but we also have one of those hot bins that gets super-high temps all year around. In the winter we move in into the polytunnel and it keeps going provided we have enough to feed it.
 
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Perhaps you can clear up something else that confuses me.

I am using the no-dig approach on my raised beds. Just 2 inches of garden compost spread on top of the beds each year and no fertilizer needed. My understanding is that the garden compost feeds the organisms in the soil and they essentially provide all the food the plants need.

Presumably it doesn't work this way when you use compost in containers? I can appreciate that if you let the containers dry out the organisms will die. But even if you keep them moist, I gather that garden compost (mixed with coir, vermiculite etc) won't be enough to feed plants for an entire season?

Correct. Pots are manipulations where the inputs are not controlled by nature. In the soil the bacteria, through enzyamatic dissolving, can even break down rocks and minerals. The plants exchange carbon for this service, and the bacteria are a fertilizing food source for fungi. I do not know if you noticed, but the fall leaf drop is supplemented with fresh greens and other storm droppings across a year in the forest. 1 application of compost is not enough, nor full cycle naturally speaking. And there is nothing in coir or pear moss to eat the compost, so it breaks a natural cycle.

Demonstrated symbiotic relationships such as the endo (inside) and ecto (outside) mycorrhizal connections to roots systems are part of the voodoo legends surrounding the mysterious yet natural no dig concepts. I say that because I have never seen a plant dig a hole for its seed.

On the other hand when I have let my garden run free it turned into a less productive environment. Too much uncontrolled competition is the problem with natural selection and modern productivity expectations for gardening.

If you lower your expectations or plant more seed it is less work but takes more room. Again I have never seen a tree with a bank account to own a deed so we all try to be economical gardeners. The various themes about different types or methods of gardening are usually combined on the internet and it causes confusion.

Indoors and Hydro, pots, raised bed, in ground planting all have a cycle that is different some ways to each other. Recognizing those differences requires a certain distance or perspective and it seems a human condition to see the trees rather than the forest. Then again I have seen trees in very large (Huge!) pots so technically one might point out that there are transitional moments between methods. But mostly it is simpler than all that.

No dig is a old offshoot of the forest floor. Recently it aquired a sexy new marketing campaign via the internet chat rooms. But what works in one area will not in another. My weeds can grow faster than a squash plant and that is impressive.
 
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