Being a newbie to this, I'm trying to learn, so indulge me here. I keep seeing mention of soil amendments, or "amending soil". What is this referring to and what context is it necessary?
Soil ammendments?
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That is a very good question, vette! Compost is the one amendment that can be applied to any soil and is beneficial.
Clay soils need to be loosened up, and compost, peat moss (not recommended by many gardeners), vermiculite (can get expensive), and any organic matter like dried grass clippings or straw or hay makes the clay soil more receptive to root growth and water penetration.
Sandy soils need help in retaining moisture--again compost really helps, as does well-rotted manure and mulches that rot down.
We have "gumbo", a heavy but fertile soil, and also a sandy soil in the back of the barn. We use compost on both, and have, over a few years, noticed a distinct improvement in the garden beds in the "gumbo". We've only gardened in the sandy part for two years, so I can't give a valid opinion on the effect of compost there.
Clay soils need to be loosened up, and compost, peat moss (not recommended by many gardeners), vermiculite (can get expensive), and any organic matter like dried grass clippings or straw or hay makes the clay soil more receptive to root growth and water penetration.
Sandy soils need help in retaining moisture--again compost really helps, as does well-rotted manure and mulches that rot down.
We have "gumbo", a heavy but fertile soil, and also a sandy soil in the back of the barn. We use compost on both, and have, over a few years, noticed a distinct improvement in the garden beds in the "gumbo". We've only gardened in the sandy part for two years, so I can't give a valid opinion on the effect of compost there.
ok, so we are really just talking about adding any sort of compost or soil to what you already have? I somehow got the impression that there was something more specific than that. When I decided to make a small garden out back (the entire cleared garden is roughly 20x20 tapering at one end. Im only planting crops in slightly more than half, the other half has a large Sago and 2 azalea bushes and what I believe is Canna Lily) I started adding in organic garden soils to improve the soil there. I really didn't know what I was doing, but I know our soil is pretty sandy and I am growing banana tree's and melons in there. Both of those take up a lot of nutrients, so I figured adding in some quality soil would help. I have mixed in:
About 200lbs of "organic garden soil"
About 25lbs of coffee grounds
banana peels (probably 4 or 5 per week)
40lb bag of composted chicken poop
I guess all of that falls under the definition? sounds simple enough I tend to overthink things I don't know much about
About 200lbs of "organic garden soil"
About 25lbs of coffee grounds
banana peels (probably 4 or 5 per week)
40lb bag of composted chicken poop
I guess all of that falls under the definition? sounds simple enough I tend to overthink things I don't know much about
MaryMary
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Yes. An amendment of any kind is a change or addition, most often with the intention of improvement.
A soil amendment is exactly that - a change intended for improving the soil.
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I believe that the amendments can help us to prepare the soil easily
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So every 54 square feet weighs between 2000lbs dryish and 3000lbs wet if you go down 6 inches. In order to amend that mass by some meaningful number you need to bring more than most people expect would be needed.
Compost, manure, and an aerator/moisture retainer like perlite, rice husks, vermiculite, zeolite, etc. Once your organic material ratio is good, add natural amendments that cover your basics.
There are hundreds of good ones but some sample sources of N include blood meal and cottonseed meal. For P you can add bone meal. For K I think langbeinite outperforms everything as it includes sulfur, magnesium, and potash. For calcium you can add oyster shell meal or get fish bone meal.
Then there are just good all around materials like alfalfa meal or kelp meal. Anyhow the idea is to add a couple of varying organic/natural based sources for different breakdown periods and strengths. Over time as these amendments breakdown your soil becomes super nutrient rich. None of this stuff will burn or overload your plants, especially if you follow the directions.
There are hundreds of good ones but some sample sources of N include blood meal and cottonseed meal. For P you can add bone meal. For K I think langbeinite outperforms everything as it includes sulfur, magnesium, and potash. For calcium you can add oyster shell meal or get fish bone meal.
Then there are just good all around materials like alfalfa meal or kelp meal. Anyhow the idea is to add a couple of varying organic/natural based sources for different breakdown periods and strengths. Over time as these amendments breakdown your soil becomes super nutrient rich. None of this stuff will burn or overload your plants, especially if you follow the directions.
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You can buy soil amendments or you can just heavily mulch soil and allow it to become the healthiest soil possible. I mulch it and I love moving aside the mulch just to look at the soil.
A lot of people like using only wood chips, they call it "Back to Eden" gardening, but I don't really care for it, I use a good amount of wood, but also lots of leaves and other loose items. Much like this guy
A lot of people like using only wood chips, they call it "Back to Eden" gardening, but I don't really care for it, I use a good amount of wood, but also lots of leaves and other loose items. Much like this guy
I use leaves and straw mulch in addition to heavy soil amendments. Combining methods has improved my soil structure significantly and greatly reduced the amount of time I spend watering the garden.