Okra not blooming

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Hello everyone,
I have two beds of Okra that is producing like crazy. I planted a third bed a month later from the same seeds and it is now over 6-foot tall and not blooming. It is healthy with stalks over 1-inch in diameter and huge dark green leaves. Any help is appreciated.
ThomasT
 

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Is this 3rd bed productive?

The first year we did okra we thought there was something wrong because we never saw flowers. But they open and close amazingly fast, you almost have to stare and wait.
 
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Comparing the leaf sizes, I would hazard a guess that the middle bunch has gotten more nitrogen than necessary because it has much bigger leaves than the old okra. If this is the case, you get lovely foliage in lieu of flowers.
 
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Is this 3rd bed productive?

The first year we did okra we thought there was something wrong because we never saw flowers. But they open and close amazingly fast, you almost have to stare and wait.
No, the "new" Okra plants are growing OK but not Blooming or producing and Okra. All of the plants came from the same package of seeds. The PH is 7 sp that is fine?

ThomasT
 
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Comparing the leaf sizes, I would hazard a guess that the middle bunch has gotten more nitrogen than necessary because it has much bigger leaves than the old okra. If this is the case, you get lovely foliage in lieu of flowers.
The "old" Okra also had the large leaves in the beginning and slowly got smaller. As stated above the PH is 7 in all of the beds.

ThomasT
 
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The "old okra" looks like crap. The "new okra" looks fine but judging from the size of the stem you either have too much N or too little light or both. When and what did you fertilize with? When did you plant the "new okra" seed and what variety is it?

How did you come up with the soils pH level?
 
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The "old okra" looks like crap. The "new okra" looks fine but judging from the size of the stem you either have too much N or too little light or both. When and what did you fertilize with? When did you plant the "new okra" seed and what variety is it?

How did you come up with the soils pH level?
Well the Old Okra may look like crap but it has been producing 12 to 15 per day ever since it was waste high.

I used my PH Meter to determine the PH, it is very accurate.

Both patches are only 2-feet apart and get sun light from 8am to 4pm

That is Clemson Spinless, old planted March 20th and new planted April 16th.

ThomasT
 
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If your okra plants are not blooming despite being healthy and tall, there could be a few reasons behind it:
  1. Nitrogen Levels: It’s possible that the soil in your third bed has an excess of nitrogen. While nitrogen promotes lush, green foliage, too much can inhibit flowering. You might want to consider reducing nitrogen-rich fertilizers and adding a balanced or phosphorus-heavy fertilizer to encourage blooming.
  2. Flowering Time: Okra flowers can open and close very quickly, often within a single day. If you're not keeping a close eye on them, you might miss the blooms. Try checking your plants in the morning when the flowers are most likely to be open.
  3. Environmental Factors: Ensure your okra is getting enough sunlight, as they require full sun to thrive and bloom. Additionally, consistent watering is key, but be cautious of overwatering, which can also affect flowering.
  4. Plant Spacing: Make sure your okra plants are not too crowded. Proper spacing ensures good air circulation and sunlight penetration, both of which are crucial for blooming.
By adjusting the fertilization, monitoring the plants more closely for blooms, ensuring proper sunlight and spacing, you should be able to encourage your okra to start flowering.
 
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Well the Old Okra may look like crap but it has been producing 12 to 15 per day ever since it was waste high.
The "old okra" may be producing but it should have leaves on it like the "new okra".

I used my PH Meter to determine the PH, it is very accurate.
What kind of pH meter? How did you test it?

That is Clemson Spinless, old planted March 20th and new planted April 16th.
So the "old okra" was planted on March 20 and the "new okra" was planted on April 16?

Both patches are only 2-feet apart and get sun light from 8am to 4pm
Full direct sunlight or shaded or filtered light? There are alot of tall trees.

When and what did you fertilize with?
?
Did you fertlizie the two beds differently?
 
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The "old okra" may be producing but it should have leaves on it like the "new okra".


What kind of pH meter? How did you test it?


So the "old okra" was planted on March 20 and the "new okra" was planted on April 16?


Full direct sunlight or shaded or filtered light? There are alot of tall trees.


?
Did you fertlizie the two beds differently?
Hello @YumYum

The meter is a 3-in-1 moisture meter with light & ph test function.

Here is the procedure that I used to initially test the Meter:

1) I took a clean new plastic cup and added in some distilled water.
2) I inserted the probes of the Meter and recorded the reading ( neutral ).
3) I then inserted some pH 1-14 Universal Full Range Litmus Test Paper Strips Tester Indicator
and compared to the Meter. They were the same.
4) I took a second clean new plastic cup and added some 5% vinegar.
5) I inserted the probes of the Meter into the vinegar and recorded the reading ( 5 Acid ).
6) I then inserted some pH 1-14 Universal Full Range Litmus Test Paper Strips Tester Indicator
into the vinegar and compared to the Meter. They were the same.
8) I then took the original cup and added some soil from my beds and added more distilled water and made a slurry.
9) I inserted the probes of the Meter into the slurry and recorded the reading ( PH 7 ).

Hope this will answer your question.

No, did not fertilize any different.

ThomasT
 
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Hello @YumYum

The meter is a 3-in-1 moisture meter with light & ph test function.

Here is the procedure that I used to initially test the Meter:

1) I took a clean new plastic cup and added in some distilled water.
2) I inserted the probes of the Meter and recorded the reading ( neutral ).
3) I then inserted some pH 1-14 Universal Full Range Litmus Test Paper Strips Tester Indicator
and compared to the Meter. They were the same.
4) I took a second clean new plastic cup and added some 5% vinegar.
5) I inserted the probes of the Meter into the vinegar and recorded the reading ( 5 Acid ).
6) I then inserted some pH 1-14 Universal Full Range Litmus Test Paper Strips Tester Indicator
into the vinegar and compared to the Meter. They were the same.
8) I then took the original cup and added some soil from my beds and added more distilled water and made a slurry.
9) I inserted the probes of the Meter into the slurry and recorded the reading ( PH 7 ).

Hope this will answer your question.

No, did not fertilize any different.

ThomasT
I couldn't get either of my 3 in 1 meters to read direct liquid. Sometimes they don't even read properly in damp soil which is where it should be used to test. They really aren't that trustworthy at testing pH.

That litmus paper has such a wide range that 7 or 8 can look about the same color green. Not really accurate enough to really say with certainty.

Your new okra looks good to me so maybe it will start producing blooms pretty soon. I know if I plant okra a month later than what I can early, it takes my okra longer to start blooming. Don't know why. Maybe the high Texas heat is putting a damper on the bloom production. There are members from Texas that grow plent of okra and they know your climate better than me. @Meadowlark, @Chuck
 
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Okra is just like any other plant when it comes to maturity. Age, not size determines maturity. Your new okra looks like it should, vigorous and robust. Your old okra needs help. Okra should be fertilized every 4 weeks to maintain vigor. It will not be long before your old okra slows its production and the small leaves are the harbinger of this. An old okra plant should have leaves the same size as new okra. Summer with its heat is here and okra loves heat.........as long as it is fed and watered correctly. I don't know if it is too late for your old okra to recover or not but I would fertilize it ASAP and hope for the best. As for the Ph of the soil, IMO it does not matter very much when growing okra. I have grown okra in both highly alkaline soil and in slightly acidic soils and I don't think it has made a bit of difference in production.
 
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Okra is just like any other plant when it comes to maturity. Age, not size determines maturity. Your new okra looks like it should, vigorous and robust. Your old okra needs help. Okra should be fertilized every 4 weeks to maintain vigor. It will not be long before your old okra slows its production and the small leaves are the harbinger of this. An old okra plant should have leaves the same size as new okra. Summer with its heat is here and okra loves heat.........as long as it is fed and watered correctly. I don't know if it is too late for your old okra to recover or not but I would fertilize it ASAP and hope for the best. As for the Ph of the soil, IMO it does not matter very much when growing okra. I have grown okra in both highly alkaline soil and in slightly acidic soils and I don't think it has made a bit of difference in production.
Good morning Chuck,

I have ordered some Super Phosphate and will apply asap. All my beds are getting plenty of water and this is new soil, so I believe that the Phosphate will be what all my plants will need. Thank you very much for a good response and help.

ThomasT
 
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Good morning Chuck,

I have ordered some Super Phosphate and will apply asap. All my beds are getting plenty of water and this is new soil, so I believe that the Phosphate will be what all my plants will need. Thank you very much for a good response and help.

ThomasT
Phosphates are excellent bloom enhansers but not so much for foliage. Foliage comes mainly from nitrogen and your old okra needs foliage. If it were me I would just use a good NPK organic all around fertilizer @ 1 cup per plant per month. On the old okra 2 cups for the first month and 1 cup per month thereafter. It is a long time until first frost. Okra really starts going late August so you have a lot of time especially on your new okra. I would save the phosphate until next spring for your tomatoes.
 

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No N-P-K Required
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Coming late to this party, but I would like to know the analysis of the soil in each of those beds and especially the bed with the non-blooming plants.

Is the soil identical in each bed? If not, how do they differ? Were any amendments added differently to the beds?

I grow a lot of okra. I start with "No N P K required soil" and never in many decades of growing okra have I had to fertilize during the growing period. Its all about the soil.

My belief is there is something different in the soil in the third bed than the others. Find what that difference is and you solve the problem.
 

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