How would you fertilize, in my case !?

[jidixe]

I have a landscape fabric, and pebbles in my garden. Cut some holes and planted my trees/flowers.
Here is an image of what i have:

trees are growing and i need to fertilize away from the trunk into the pebble area.

Reading a lot and learned that citrus trees love fertilizer 6-6-6 .
However, there is the fabric.
Removing right now is not an option!


Whats the safest way to fertilize over the stones??

Locally i can find this
1) granular fertilizer which is 4-4-4 HERE
2) and 20-20-20 water soluble HERE


**Note that i am still learning gardening, and i tend to over fertilize because i am stupid, so i like that 4-4-4 ...small dosage right? safer?

 

[Ernst]

Not stupid my friend. Chemicals can be an issue.
That is not my forte but a quick search

A fertilizer with the three major plant nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, is called a complete fertilizer. Commonly used complete fertilizers for trees and shrubs have a ratio of 3:1:1. Select an analysis that supplies the nutrients your plant needs without over-supplying unnecessary nutrients.Feb 17, 2023

 

[Ernst]

Also: Here is a fun fact about Trees and plants in General.

We take a look at a 140-year-old idea but very much a radical one—the root-brain hypothesis. It was proposed by Charles Darwin in a book published in the twilight of his career. The idea, in short, is that plants have a structure that is, in some ways, brain-like—and it is located underground, at their roots.Oct 14, 2020

 

[Chuck]

A fabric weed barrier is porous and water will easily go through it. You can just spread your fertilizer on the surface of the gravel, out to the drip line of the tree and water it in. On organic fertilizers such as your 4-4-4 it is VERY difficult to use too much, just use what the directions say. Even if you accidentally use twice or three times the amount as perscribed no need to worry. All you have done is just injured your bank account. Organic fertilizers are slow release and root burn is just about unheard of. Chemical/synthetic fertilizers like the 20-20-20 can and will harm a plant if you use just a little too much. Do yourself and your tree a big favor and never use synthetic fertilizers on anything.

 

[jidixe]

A fabric weed barrier is porous and water will easily go through it. You can just spread your fertilizer on the surface of the gravel, out to the drip line of the tree and water it in. On organic fertilizers such as your 4-4-4 it is VERY difficult to use too much, just use what the directions say. Even if you accidentally use twice or three times the amount as perscribed no need to worry. All you have done is just injured your bank account. Organic fertilizers are slow release and root burn is just about unheard of. Chemical/synthetic fertilizers like the 20-20-20 can and will harm a plant if you use just a little too much. Do yourself and your tree a big favor and never use synthetic fertilizers on anything.

@Chuck ,

thats excellent news. Thats what i was trying to figure out.

 

[cpp gardener]

Or, just FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE PACKAGE. They put them there for a reason and have a rather large margin for error. The synthetics give you a faster response.
Depends on what you want.

 

[Ernst]

Or, just FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE PACKAGE. They put them there for a reason and have a rather large margin for error. The synthetics give you a faster response.
Depends on what you want.

I was concerned that microbial action through the fabric would be restricted.

 

[Ernst]

I have a landscape fabric, and pebbles in my garden. Cut some holes and planted my trees/flowers.
Here is an image of what i have:
View attachment 99962

trees are growing and i need to fertilize away from the trunk into the pebble area.

Reading a lot and learned that citrus trees love fertilizer 6-6-6 .
However, there is the fabric.
Removing right now is not an option!


Whats the safest way to fertilize over the stones??

Locally i can find this
1) granular fertilizer which is 4-4-4 HERE
2) and 20-20-20 water soluble HERE


**Note that i am still learning gardening, and i tend to over fertilize because i am stupid, so i like that 4-4-4 ...small dosage right? safer?

Since thinking about trees now involves Apples. Yes I live now where Apples grow.
My mind is that a living soil in the ideal.
The soil food web is the idea. (Google it)
I do respect the landscaping and in truth that is a very low maintenance layout.
So if you are in a drought area and top growth requires water then one of the things to do is have a drip ring for water out there at least to the drip line.
I think we are all assuming the goal is big and shady. No I don't mean my Cousin Fat Albert but, that's close.. I mean a Tree that one can sit under someday.
Am I on the right track?
Okay so the traditional pile on the compost ideology is still the best one for longevity of health healthy in my opinion but, with that landscaping and obviously factors I don't know; I really like the drip idea and in that drip of water there are also liquid ferts that can be of your choice that can be fed into the drip.
That is a Google search. My favorite Organic site is GrowOrganic.com
So it comes down to your relationship with that tree and what you want to do for it.

In my life my family has grown trees for those who departed and I have a fondness for Mulberry trees even though they are considered invasive.
Apple is a possibility here in a year or two and Apple Schnaps would be a thing for sure in my house! Oh I gave it away I'm German.
So start with regular water and look into how to deliver things to help it grow but also there is maintenance feeding in my opinion.
I like fish emulation for quick leaf growth myself.

Update us

 

[jidixe]

went with the 4-4-4 which is organic chicken manure granular.

Man, it stinks !

I am caring for an avocado that is not doing so well, and a mango that i am nursing from probable overfertilizing from my part.
I also have other trees ie citrus trees that are doing well.

anyway, gave them ALL a couple of handfull of fertilizer around the trip line and watered them.

Now, when can i fertilize again?
There are no such instructions on the case.

 

[cpp gardener]

Wait at least a month before applying more. That’s the typical frequency.

 

[Oliver Buckle]

A fabric weed barrier is porous and water will easily go through it.

I must be, or it would flood every time it rained.

Wait at least a month before applying more.

Personally, unless the plants looked like they needed it, I would wait much longer. Plus I don't know how your seasons go, but I wouldn't use anything while they go dormant for the winter.

 

[Ernst]

I must be, or it would flood every time it rained.

Personally, unless the plants looked like they needed it, I would wait much longer. Plus I don't know how your seasons go, but I wouldn't use anything while they go dormant for the winter.

Perhaps it is a desert clime? Looks that way to me.
I was thinking drip water is the part of that nutritious (for the tree) feeding so that microbial activity is stimulated. Otherwise ( in my mind ) utilization of nutrients would be related to rain.
I know that it's a very lovely Zen-Style rock mulch but I still favor mulching with compost over rocks.
So sprinkling compost too is an idea. Feed the soil.

Then again is it overkill?

 

[Ernst]

went with the 4-4-4 which is organic chicken manure granular.

Man, it stinks !

I am caring for an avocado that is not doing so well, and a mango that i am nursing from probable overfertilizing from my part.
I also have other trees ie citrus trees that are doing well.

anyway, gave them ALL a couple of handfull of fertilizer around the trip line and watered them.

Now, when can i fertilize again?
There are no such instructions on the case.

Oh so cool!
I was watching a documentary and was a bit taken aback that Avocado is rather difficult. I saw that also growing one from seed doesn't mean great fruit will grow from it because only some strains of avocado make a tree that gives us the fruit we think of. They are mostly clone plants so that the fruit is what we expect. I did not know that.
The first thing that comes to mind is what is the soil pH?
Now I know next to nothing about growing avocado and I now live where there is no chance outdoors for one but on the pH issue

Avocados grow best with a soil pH of 5-7. Avocados are very sensitive to alkaline soils, with pH greater than 7. Their uptake of iron and zinc can be terribly compromised with high soil pH and they will suffer.

There are soil test strips. Take three or four samples from around the tree and put in a baggie then shake and mix. Then test.
The idea is so that nutrient uptake happens and nutrient uptake is influenced by microbial activities in something of a symbiotic relationship, I understand.
So if it's doing badly and you would like to know if the soil is needing something to adjust pH in a favorable range well I think a soil test is a goodly way.
I am yet to shell out the clams for one here but I will! I'm waiting for next year's season because of all the rototilling and adding of grass to break up the soil to stabilize and then spending money on a soil test will make sense.
Now on Mango. We had one in our back yard in Florida. It did well in very organic somewhat sandy soil where it's roots were in the cool shade provided by the house. So perhaps trying to keep the root zone a little more cool? That is only an idea based on something I think might help and the advice is free so you know what that's worth. Also what is the ideal pH range for wonderful Mango?

Soil pH. The best soil for mango plant growth ranges between 4.5 and 7.0 pH, which is neutral to acidic soil. The mango plants does tolerate slightly alkaline soil. Use a soil testing kit and determine the pH of the

So not that I am a magic tree doctor but soil pH is one thing that came to mind to see about.
I think, and the other folks here can suggest better, that there are two basic things to adjust pH and one is lime and the other is sulfur. On using these thing however, one has to be on the skimpy application side and do some then wait and see. That is if you need to but it's something to consider and if you do use them get better advice on application then mine. I have not done too much of that except for exotic compost tumbler creations for very special plants.

 

[jidixe]

Thank you to all for the help ,

I am in Zone10a. We are on the 'hot side '

I already have a soil meter thingy. My ph is around 7.5 of what i can read(its analog, and its not precise). The soil test strip you mention should be better.
I am giving my avocado, which i bought from a farm ( grafted), iron.
It does not look that it responds. But i am taking it easy with this one

 

[Ernst]

Thank you to all for the help ,

I am in Zone10a. We are on the 'hot side '

I already have a soil meter thingy. My ph is around 7.5 of what i can read(its analog, and its not precise). The soil test strip you mention should be better.
I am giving my avocado, which i bought from a farm ( grafted), iron.
It does not look that it responds. But i am taking it easy with this one

Welp....

7.5 is on the outside of range and since it can be as low as 4.5 perhaps some sulfur might be helpful?
With this aspect I defer to the more experienced on this site.
Changing pH isn't a thing I have experience with.
Edit:

Soil pH is reduced most effectively by adding elemental sulfur, aluminum sulfate, and iron sulfate, or natural soil acidifiers (peat moss, rotted manure, or compost).