Heavy Pruning Roses In Fall Question

[PGB1]

Hi All!

We have a rose called Oso Easy Double Red that I pruned in spring. This summer, it grew like mad and got too large. I'd like to prune it back to a more rounded shape, and about 3 feet shorter and less diameter. (It got to be about 6 feet tall this summer.)

I've read dozens of sources about pruning in fall. Some say it is the best time, some say never do this. Some say only prune to 5 leaves and some say it is OK to remove all the leaves. We are in the Detroit area and days currently are above freezing, but nights often drop below freezing. Any flowers that are on the plant show signs of being frozen. Most leaves are green, some are yellow with black spots.

To get the shape we want, lots of branches won't have leaves left. Am I OK to prune at this time of year? Is it OK to remove leaves, or do I leave the 5-leaf clusters?

Thanks for helping me not wreck this rose bush!
Paul

 

[Oliver Buckle]

I prune back hard in Autumn (Fall), but I always leave a bud more than I want, because sometimes a hard frost can kill the end of a pruned branch, then I take off the extra bit in Spring, so I prune to four buds first prune, three the second. I also take anything crossing over or growing into the centre out completely. My experience is the more you take the better it flowers.

Most leaves are green, some are yellow with black spots.

You won't do much harm taking leaves off late in the year, the photosynthesis has already happened. The black spots can be indicative of fungal disease, Are there any on the green twigs you are going to prune? Prevention is better than cure, get rid of all the leaves and old flowers, burn them if you can, and clear any debris from the ground underneath that could harbour spores. Don't sling it all in the compost and then put it back under the rose next year, spores can last a long time in difficult conditions.

Don't be shy of cutting back, so long as there is a root system and you haven't gone below a graft if it is not on its own root it will come back if there is a nascent bud or two. A stump and two branches is a bit harsh, but it would still make it.

 

[cpp gardener]

With your really cold winters, it’s best to leave any hard pruning until spring. Remove any dead branches and prune the rest to about 12” tall. You will have to cut it back several times over the summer since it will grow to 6’ every year if you don’t. That is the ‘normal’ height in your area and trying to keep it smaller will always be a thing.

 

[PGB1]

Thank You both for helping and for explanations. We certainly appreciate the guidance you've supplied.

After reading what you both wrote, I won't be afraid to prune, but will be a bit judicious about fall pruning. In spring, I'll be a bit more brave.

I'll be sure to remove and dispose of all the yellowed, spotted leaves. I haven't seen any spots on the green twigs. The maple trees on & around our yard have black spots, too. It is impossible to get rid of all of those leaves because they blow into the yard all year from the whole neighborhood. But, I try to get rid of as many as possible before snow hits and after it leaves. Luckily we get to have the city pick bags of leaves up until November 24 & again in spring so we don't have to send them to a landfill.

Thanks Again!
Paul

 

[cpp gardener]

The black spots on the maple are completely different from the roses and not infectious to them. Pile them around the roses as high as you can and then pile as much snow around and over them as you can. It acts as insulation and prevents extreme frost damage.

 

[Oliver Buckle]

I forgot to say, the reason I make an Autumn prune and don't just do it in the Spring is to reduce windage. Leave them big all winter and the rocking about loosens up the root, they hate that.