Grassless lawn: How to start viola seeds, what to plant with them to fill between?

Joined
Jul 13, 2020
Messages
13
Reaction score
7
Location
S.E. Vermont
Hardiness Zone
5a
Country
United States
I'm aiming to kill all the grass and grassy weeds and grow a groundcover lawn instead (it's a steep hill and it sucks to mow it every week). To this end, I purchased several packets of fancy viola seeds and I plan to replace my grassy/weedy lawn with them (and some other groundcovers). I chose violas because they are doing well in other lawns in this area (and most people consider them weeds so I have access to digging up more varieties from other people's lawns). When and how is the best way to start viola seeds to maximize their potential? Should I start them in a seed flat and then transplant them after they have gotten started, or can they be successfully directly sown in the lawn? I'm in Southern Vermont (5A).

Will they do better with less competition, or will they choke out the grass and other weeds on their own? Should I resist the urge to Round-up the entire lawn? Maybe there is a HERBICIDE THAT ONLY KILLS GRASS and not broadleafs/wildflowers (if so, please tell me what it's called, I found articles saying this stuff exists but no brands/links, and most do the opposite, killing the stuff I want and saving the grass)? I am on a slope so can't do major tilling or the soil will erode away if it rains. The ground is hard packed but well drained, most likely fairly poor (although I was able to grow a semi-successful garden in it, so not awful), and full of stone (mostly schist and slate but some smaller glacial till as well). Digging holes that do more than skim the surface involves a pickax rather than a shovel, I've found it's nearly impossible to dig a hole more than 3-4" deep without a pickax because I hit stones every time. Most of the stones that turn up when breaking up the soil are fist to forearm sized, some are serving plate to 12 pack of cans size, most are 3-5" deep (meaning in most places there is a 2-4" layer of soil over the bulk of the rock that makes up the ground here). About half the rocks you see in the pic below were pulled out of the soil in this area when making the terraces. I'm not going to buy topsoil, but am not opposed to pulling out any big rocks and adding some dirt from another spot to bring it back up to level as needed when I plant the groundcover. I would prefer not to do this to the whole lawn so groundcovers that will grow on top of gravel/stone in a thin layer of topsoil would be great. I don't mind watering it daily.

What else would do well planted with/between the violas to fill in between them? From what I have seen in other lawns, violas like to grow in bunches. I'm thinking I need another short groundcover that can tolerate the blazing afternoon/evening to fill in between the violas. It's too much sun for ajuga and mazus (tried them both, not working, yellowing/browning and dying in sun/heat despite daily watering). It needs to stay short (ideally shorter than or same height as the violas) or grow slower than the violas and be mowable (and look decent when mowed). I don't want any grass of any kind. I do not want sedum or other succulents of any kind (I hate the way it feels when you walk on it). I don't want periwinkle/vinca which is very invasive here. Whatever it is needs to be something that doesn't have woody stems, thorns, spikey leaves, or other foot-stabbers. The yard gets filtered morning sun, then is shaded by the house from 10AM-1:30PM, then it gets full late afternoon/evening sun, and it's a steep west-facing hill, so it's direct sun even late in the day. Several part sun groundcovers I have tried have not fared well in the heat/sun despite it having half a day of shade, so I think I need full sun capable suggestions that will fill in between the violas and be walkable (bonus if the foliage is deep or vivid green and any flowers are blue, purple, lavender). Will creeping thyme play nicely with violas? How about rockcress? Would veronica (tidal pool, liwanensis, or blue reflection, which are prone varieties that stay under 5") be able to compete with the violas to fill in between them, or should I try a higher prone veronica like georgia blue (6-8") between the violas? Maybe I just picked a bad variety of ajuja (burgundy glow) and others do better in sun? Maybe a short clover? Getting ready to place a fall order to get stuff that needs to be planted in the fall. Open to suggestions.

It's to replace the junk grass/weeds in the foreground of this photo (it continues down the hill to the driveway/parking area):
20200522_182824.jpg


Looking to replace the "lawn" shown in background here (behind the garden fence):
20200711_081034.jpg
 

JBtheExplorer

Native Gardener
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Messages
1,412
Reaction score
3,201
Location
Wisconsin
Showcase(s):
1
Hardiness Zone
5b
Country
United States
Consider native gardens. Perhaps there are some native plant nurseries in your area that would have native seed mixes appropriate for your yard conditions. I love your hilly yard, it'd make some fantastic pollinator habitat!
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2020
Messages
13
Reaction score
7
Location
S.E. Vermont
Hardiness Zone
5a
Country
United States
Consider native gardens. Perhaps there are some native plant nurseries in your area that would have native seed mixes appropriate for your yard conditions. I love your hilly yard, it'd make some fantastic pollinator habitat!
It would be difficult to ignore the property line to make it into flower beds. The property line is right in the middle of everything. We (us tenants who rent the two spaces in the back of each property and live here) don't care where the actual property line is and so far neither property owner has told me to stop doing this, but I would not feel comfortable turning the neighbor's lawn into flower beds because it would be really obvious, and if I only did the part on my side of the line it would just be a 3' strip that barely contains my garden, so it needs to stay relatively "lawn-like" to keep the property line somewhat "blurry" down in the "lawn" part. I'm just looking to choke out the existing grass with more broadleaf groundcover, not be really obvious. It's already at least 50% weeds, it shouldn't be hard to get rid of the rest of the grass, I just need low groundcover ideas that can be mowed because the property management company that the neighboring property owner uses mows this area.

I have not stopped anywhere close to the actual property line (shown in orange below, best guess based on the markers I could find), so I really need to be careful not to make it seem like I'm "taking their lawn" on the off chance the actual property owner next door actually ever visits. As you can see in the bottom right frame, when I started, I was much more actually on my own property, but as I've gone along, I have creeped ever more over the property line.
property-line-blur.jpg
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2021
Messages
4,223
Reaction score
1,493
Location
California
Country
United States
There was no need to remove the grass on the slope for this project. Doing so doubtlessly encouraged erosion. However, I do agree that mowing would be a pointless and tiresome chore on such a slope. Rather the lawn should have been treated as a no-mow or once-a-year shear meadow. Spaces between the lawn grass would be planted with a variety of annual and low perennial plants, including larger perennial bunch grasses which would further stabilize the slope. Emphasizing the use native plants in such a project would be ideal.
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2020
Messages
13
Reaction score
7
Location
S.E. Vermont
Hardiness Zone
5a
Country
United States
There was no need to remove the grass on the slope for this project. Doing so doubtlessly encouraged erosion. However, I do agree that mowing would be a pointless and tiresome chore on such a slope. Rather the lawn should have been treated as a no-mow or once-a-year shear meadow. Spaces between the lawn grass would be planted with a variety of annual and low perennial plants, including larger perennial bunch grasses which would further stabilize the slope. Emphasizing the use native plants in such a project would be ideal.

Luckily, there hasn't been any erosion of the slope at all. The bare soil you see was part of the terracing project (which also hasn't had any major erosion issues). None of the slope was stripped of its vegetation except where I put in my garden (that's also a now a more proper terrace and obviously, I till that). Violas are native, which is one of the reasons I was going with them (https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/viola/sororia/). I have gotten some ajuga reptans established this year up by the steps (see photo), but am reluctant to put that out in the primary lawn, because, as you note, I would rather go with natives. Native is difficult, however, as despite this seeming to be an impractical location, this is actually a very much used lawn. My cats and I sun in this yard. My neighbor has to walk up it to get in and out of his back door. This is my yard. Two landscaping companies will occasionally be mowing it (they come like every other week, one weed eats it all, the other drives a much too big riding mower up the hill which skids and leaves bare patches), whether I want them to or not (I have no control over that, despite me doing my own push mowing they STILL come out and blow grass cuttings into my garden). So it can't be "no mow" plants. I'm thinking of trying seeding some white clover next year, for lack of any better idea. I finally finished the lower part of the terrace. I'm hoping this coming spring to get the upper terrace landscaped (or at least get the dirt covered). I've still got some pickax work to do up there so not holding my breath. The hill recountouring process has been long and hard. It is extremely rocky. But it will be worth it to have a flat area...an actually flat 6x8' rectangle of land to put a chaise lounge and a side table. I would love to have more SOMETHING growing in the "lawn" this year though. The bald patches (and the big furry leaved weeds) are really ugly. But I refuse to seed grass. I just hate grass so much. And it's not like it wants to grow here. Every other weed under the sun beside grass is trying to grow on this hill. There has to be *something* else that can be used as "lawn". I've just not figured out what it is yet.
20210901_152534.jpg
 
Joined
Aug 10, 2021
Messages
4,223
Reaction score
1,493
Location
California
Country
United States
It is a complex site with a variety of uses and stakeholders. The Ajuga reptans 'Burgundy Glow', Hosta and other herbs do look nice beside the old steps. A terrace rockery and pond does seem like a good use of the space.
 
Joined
Jul 13, 2020
Messages
13
Reaction score
7
Location
S.E. Vermont
Hardiness Zone
5a
Country
United States
It is a complex site with a variety of uses and stakeholders. The Ajuga reptans 'Burgundy Glow', Hosta and other herbs do look nice beside the old steps. A terrace rockery and pond does seem like a good use of the space.

Thanks! You say "old" steps, but I made those steps, they are "new" using reclaimed concrete retaining wall sections. Those didn't exist before! That was all one slope with no steps or terracing. I filled that all in by digging out further up the hill and throwing the dirt down as I slowly dug and sifted all the rocks you see making the walls out of the dirt. I moved that old concrete from another location, a different retaining wall that had fallen over.

The stone happened because I finally gave up on getting anything to grow on that hard-packed soil, and on this one part, I would have had an erosion issue if I had tried to break it up. This part is the existing natural slope and it's just a nest of old roots and rocks just below the surface, with basically no topsoil. I couldn't get anything to grow on it. I tried scratching it some, but every time I did that, when it would rain, it just ran off, and into the pond, and I was getting tired of cleaning silt out of the pond filter, so I just finally put about $300 of stone down. I figure I can spot plant a few annuals in it every spring to make it look pretty, and once I get the terrace above it done, there will be some trailing plants that will cascade over that wall above it.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 10, 2021
Messages
4,223
Reaction score
1,493
Location
California
Country
United States
Spounds good. That rock wall and the gravel below could be excellent habitat for various choice rock garden plants. I would consider Sempervivum and hardy Sedum in particular, or perhaps even some rare Saxifraga and such, if you want a challenge.
 

Ask a Question

Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?

You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments. After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.

Ask a Question

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
27,874
Messages
264,672
Members
14,611
Latest member
Yashsawant

Latest Threads

Top