CJ18A Mini Lathe any good?

Ian

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I've been reading some of the recent posts here and working on a few project ideas in the garage, but a lot of the things I'd like to build would need a metal lathe. It would also be useful for making replacement knobs for our oven, telescope accessories, etc...

I don't need to be able to work with large pieces, so it looks like a mini lathe may be the place to start. I saw the CJ18A Mini Lathe for a good price and wondered if anyone here has used one before? It's a cheap Chinese lathe, but looks solid enough for a beginner. I had a look at second hand ones on ebay, but they weren't any nearby to collect. If I "upgrade" in the future, I'd likely go for a really solid 2nd hand machine that I can clean up and get running smoothly.

Here's a link to the machine (although I'd found it for less than £400 elsewhere):

http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/-...--Metric-----span-----AMA_LA_CJ18_M_3JRB.html

It is the right size for me, can do metric threads and has enough easy to obtain parts (as it seems to be a very popular "hobby" machine). However, as I've got almost zero experience with lathes, I don't know if it's any good!

Hope you don't mind me tagging you in this one @Colin, as this may be your area of expertise (and I'm blaming you for getting me hooked ;)) :D.
 

Colin

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Hi,

Good question Ian and no problem at all involving me. I owned a small Clarke lathe much to my dismay. Dinners almost ready but later today I'll be happy to expand on this with more information and pictures. Please don't jump in and buy one of these lathes until you've seen my comments? (y)

Please have a look at this thread of mine regarding my Clarke mini lathe.

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/clarke-lathe-and-keyway-cutting-jig-t75209.html

Kind regards, Colin.
 
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Ian

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Have you looked into the mini CNC mills?

That's probably the next thing on my list :D. They are pretty affordable and it's great that they're CNC, as I can work with more complex designs. However, quite a few mechanical components I'd like to work on need threading (more than a tap and die could easily do) - so a lathe would fill that gap. Perhaps in a couple of years, I would add a CNC mill too :).
 

Colin

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Hi,

You're most welcome Ian. (y)

It's incredible how all these small lathes can be made for so little money considering the dealer has to make a profit also our government want VAT.

The Mosaic lathe with the more powerful motor does look like a better buy; it has a 3MT headstock bore and 2MT tailstock bore so lots of second hand tooling will fit without trouble; buying brand new at least you won't have a lathe where the carriage has been run into the headstock or suffered other mishaps/abuse.

Whatever lathe you decide to buy I'd recommend using HSS (high speed steel) cutters because these don't chip and can be ground quite easily on a standard bench grinder with care not to overheat the tip. All kinds of profiles can be ground and the HSS tooling is cheap bought as blanks; I've got quite a few; I also have tipped tooling so tend to use both as the mood takes me; I have a high speed diamond hone so I can sharpen tipped tooling.

My Clarke was the first I've ever owned with variable speed and of course this is useful but on the Clarke the electronics and motor were flimsy and at the time I believe a new circuit board cost in excess of £100; lots of owners have burned out the circuit board and if like me burning out both the circuit board and motor together it's a very costly repair indeed with no guarantee the new circuit board and motor will not also burn out.

It was said on the forum that I was heavy handed hence I experienced the troubles I did but I expect any metal lathe to take a light cut of 60 thou (0.060") the maximum for the Clarke was a meagre ten thou which I never ever expected; this is just a scratch on the lathes I'm used to operating so yes it was my own fault for overloading the motor and circuit board and I'll freely own up to this.

On a big lathe small items can be turned but on a small lathe big items can't be turned? One major problem I found on the Clarke was the very limiting 12" between centres; if I wanted to bore into a shaft end I found it very difficult indeed with a chuck in the tailstock and the drill bit in the chuck; this really did limit the length of bar stock to be worked upon unless the stock was small enough diameter to pass through the headstock mandrel.

I was taught thread cutting on the lathe as an apprentice over 50 years ago but still haven't used this skill; I use taps and dies; I can have the job done by the time I set up the lathe.

I've never used DRO or CNC so I'm unable to comment upon these; I'm a dinosaur taught before computers were in use in fact electricity was still quite new. There's no doubt things have moved on a great deal and CNC is the way to go for mass production; all the machines where I worked for before retiring were CNC and robots; the setter could be sitting in his front room at home and control the machines at work.

It's interesting though that where I worked a number of old boys being skilled turners were employed full time on manual lathes using micrometers for one off jobs; I do have a digital vernier caliper which I find very useful indeed but for precision down to a tenth of a thou (0.0001") I rely on my micrometer. I still find it annoying that when I'm into finishing cuts my digital vernier will want a new battery installing shattering my concentration.

The Mosaic lathe has metal gears but it's possible even plastic gears will do the job if the lathe is used as recommended by the manufacturer; the problem of course is once the operator becomes more proficient at lathe work then it could be highly frustrating spending forever to reduce the diameter of a bar?

At least Ian you are now aware of the limitations of these small lathes and as you say perhaps buying the Mosaic will get you up and running very quickly indeed and should you later wish to trade up you'll get a decent price for the Mosaic. Do you have space for a floor standing lathe.

Just a though Ian but 3 phase lathes are best being industrial rated and its possible to run one of these through a VFD; I'm currently using a single VFD to power both my Graduate woodturning lathe and also my Lorch both having identical 1.5hp motors but with a bit of fancy wiring/switching. The VFD I've owned for years and it does everything to the motor apart from make the motor talk? A VFD costs around £100 new but not really something for a novice to play around with due to the high risk of electrocution but well worth considering if buying a decent older lathe?

I love lathework and I take my skills for granted but lathe novice has a steep learning curve; the first mistake is usually to remove too much material; a novice will at first be puzzled after carefully dialing in say ten thou wanting to reduce the material by ten thou but is then surprised after taking the cut that twenty thou has been removed.

I won't bang on about it but safety is paramount operating a lathe; loose clothing; jewelry and long hair are major fun for a lathe but no fun for the lathe operator who hopefully survives having his/her scalp removed or a finger neatly amputated.

Please keep us updated Ian because I for one am very interested and always keen to encourage anyone to buy a lathe (or two or three). Play safely.

Kind regards, Colin.
 
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Ian

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Many thanks Colin, that's a huge help!

I think the cheaper lathe also has 2/3MT stocks, which is helpful - but it doesn't look as solid as the larger (and more expensive) 600W version. I note that the weight of the 600W unit is near double, which is re-assuring.

I'm running short on space, but I could fit a floor standing lathe in with a bit of re-jigging. I suspect even if I get a bench-top lathe, I'll be converting it to sit on a movable bench.

I think if I went down the VFD/industrial route, it would be overkill for my needs - as much as I would enjoy that :D. I'm hoping to get a reasonable machine to learn on that should last me a few years, which I could then sell on and upgrade to something bigger if needed. I suspect one of these machines may well do me for decades (assuming the control board/motor last!).

If I do get one of these machines, I may open it up and see what I can do regarding the electronics - I wonder if some active cooling would help things.

I'm going to have a think over the next couple of days before rushing in and buying one - but I think it'll be one of the two variants listed on the Amazon link above (either the one for £399 or £549). I think both would be good enough for my needs, but the more expensive one looks like it'll last longer and may be better quality.

I'll keep you posted once there are any developments :).

What's the most complex thing you've made on your metal lathe? I'd love to see more photos of your work, if you get a chance to post them - I really enjoy viewing them!
 

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Hi,

Thanks Ian; I agree; weight is better; I've always gone for cast iron machinery to restore; these old machines will live forever with a bearing change and a bit of lubrication.

I don't mind starting a thread covering both woodturning and metal turning adding a few pictures of my work. I stress though although I've used lathes for a lifetime I'm no expert always using the lathe as needed and lathwork (metal) was just another part of my job. (y) I was honoured with top award for a comprehensive restoration of a vintage AVO Wave Winder involving lots of lathe work resulting in me blowing up a 1.5hp single phase motor that couldn't stand the pace.

I've got a good library of very assorted pictures showing both wood and metal turning I've done over the years which hopefully would encourage other members to adopt lathe work not only as a very interesting hobby but allowing them to produce useful items from offcuts costing virtually nothing.

Kind regards, Colin.
 

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Funnily enough, one of the things I'll be building with some of the lathe work is a coil winder! I would love to see more photos of things you've worked on - hopefully I'll be able to contribute a few of my own in the coming months.

I think I'm leaning towards the £549.99 lathe and may pull the trigger on buying it tonight, depending on what else I can find about it. It looks like it also comes with a brushless motor, which is a nice improvement. edit: Nope, not brushless after all!

Other than HSS tooling, what other accessories (if any) would you recommend I start with? It comes with a dead centre, which I'll swap to a live centre at some point.
 
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Colin

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Hi,

Good luck Ian with whichever lathe you choose.

During my ten years restoring vintage radios I gathered lots of kit including; Avo manual coil winder; two expensive German Aumann coil winders and the Avo Wave Winder I fully restored; I also designed and made a simple miniature coil winder for adding tiny coils to the ends of component wires to make for easier soldering but I'll add details of all these too Ian seeing you are interested.

Yes a live center is a must. A cheap £15 digital vernier caliper for general work these read both imperial & metric. A micrometer of your choice either 0-1" or 0-25mm I have both. A DTI (dial test indicator on magnetic stand) is useful. Slocombe drills are a must (center drill). Shims for adjusting tool cutter height but these can be anything to hand; I even use shims cut from tin cans but tool height is very important. Set of assorted sized twist drills; I've got these in packs of ten bought from Rufforth Auto Jumble being top quality. A Jacobs chuck & chuck key for the tailstock #2MT. Knurling tool if you are making knobs etc. A bench grinder to sharpen your HSS tools. Decent light at low voltage if possible. Oil can and oil for lathe bed etc. Small brush for clearing swarf. Newspaper for lining under lathe bed to make easy clean up of swarf. For larger boring Morse Taper drills and reamers although a boring bar will open up a bore if the bar can be brought to bear on the work.

This sounds like a lot of expense but just buy as needed; there's no doubt good quality lathe tooling is expensive but it's usually a one off payment. Once you get into lathe work a four jaw independent chuck will be useful; self centering chucks are OK for general work but for optimum accuracy a four jaw independent chuck used in conjunction with a DTI will get the work bang on. My Lorch just has a self centering chuck but I can get the work to run true using the DTI and gently tapping the free end of the work but I do mean gently; my chucks are well used.

A lot depends Ian on the jobs you tackle as to tooling you need; the above is just off the top of my head; I forgot to mention a boring bar but to get you started with care you can grind a boring bar from an HSS blank?

Buying steel bar is expensive but if you buy at places like "K Steels" then its about quarter of the price but there is a minimum order of £25? I buy BMS (Bright mild steel) this is usually fine for general work and tends to be free cutting. There are lots of lathe items on eBay at decent prices.

Once you get your lathe set up everything will start to fall into place; the learning curve is steep to start with and you'll make the same silly mistakes we all make; never leave the chuck key in the chuck and ensure the chuck revolves without fouling anything before switching on. Here's a video and also here are two companies I buy from.

Kind regards, Colin.

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/

 

Ian

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Thank you very much Colin, that's a huge help :).

My next question was going to be where to get material from, but you've already answered that :D. I'll check out the K Steels website now. They've got a warehouse in Rawtenstall which isn't a million miles away from me.

Thanks for the recommendations - I'll add these to my "list" for once I've decided on the lathe. I'm sure I'll be knurling straight away, and a DTI & micrometer look essential. It looks like there's a hobby fair in Chester at the end of the month, where some of these machines are demo'd. If I'm patient, I may wait until then so that I can try one out and pick it up on the day.
 

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Hi,

Just a quick message this time Ian. When I need steel from K Steels I simply email with a wish list asking for a quote; please note all steel comes in standard lengths but I ask to have these cut into 4' long lengths so they will fit into my car when I collect; whilst on site I'm cheeky and ask if it's possible to have a look at their offcuts and I usually end up with a good selection that is far cheaper than buying at model engineer suppliers; I never waste their time or become a pest then I can always return; take along rigger gloves and line your vehicle with old rug or carpet; an oily steering wheel isn't fun?

Regarding waiting for the hobby fair this could be to your benefit because unlike buying directly online you might be able to negotiate a better price but please be very careful not to get caught up with excitement; all the companies will be claiming their goods are better for some reason or another; it will pay to take along prices written down for your own reference; if you can't get the price a bit lower how about a bit of cheek and ask if they'll throw in an attachment or a bit of tooling? I'm cheeky but always very polite; friendly and cheerful; do your homework before attending. Be careful you don't end up signing for a brand new Colchester lathe? :D

Is it possible to obtain a list of companies displaying at the fair then you can possibly narrow down your search because such fairs can be bewildering with too much to take in all at once; things you remember whilst at home are easily forgotten in a crowd.

Now for a bit of quality time with my Bron watching a movie before bedtime.

Kind regards, Colin.
 

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Good plan Colin - I've got some liner for the car for jobs just like that :).

I'm going to hold fire on the Lathe until the fair (and try to get a good deal while I'm there). I'll keep you posted once I've made a purchase :D.
 

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